• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Vector Print quality VS Rasture and something I didn't realize.

Airbrush1

Music paints on silence
A Tip for New Sign Makers (That Took Me 7 Years to Learn)

Most of you experienced sign shops already know this, but I thought I’d share it for the newbies—because it took me 7 years to figure out.

I’ve had my Mimaki CJV150-130 for about 8 years now. Like many, I started in the school of hard knocks (still enrolled, by the way). I do most of my work in Photoshop but constantly bounce back and forth with Illustrator.

Early on, I would create a layout in Illustrator, bring it into Photoshop for tweaks, and then save it as an EPS—thinking I still had that crisp vector quality from Illustrator. I didn’t.

Just because something saves as a vector format doesn’t mean it remains a vector. Once Photoshop rasterizes the image, saving it as an EPS doesn't magically restore the vector quality. What you get is what I call a "vectorized-looking raster file"—lol.

The result? My prints were often grainy, semi-transparent, and just didn’t have the punch I expected.

So to any newcomers: keep your vector work in Illustrator when possible. If you need to use Photoshop, know what’s being rasterized and when. It makes a huge difference in print quality. Always try to Save from Illustrator.

Hope this saves someone a few years of trial and error!
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

dreko

New Member
PDF format has been great for me. Why not just print directly out of Illustrator to your Mimaki? Tweaks were photographic imagery in Photoshop?
 
Top