Vinyl window design

Cre8tive

New Member
I need some help in figuring out what film should I use for a outdoor window sign. Where ro get it and how to apply the vinyl. I have worked with heat transfer film for t-shirts design before and expanding into vinyl sign.
 

Flame

Major Contributor
I agree, Oracal is a good way to go.

Another tip, make sure to clean the glass well, and apply the decals wet with Window Juice brand application fluid. The stuff works awesome for glass. You can use regular brand application fluid as well, but I've fell in love with Window Juice for glass applications.
 

MAB SIGNS

Very Active Member
Expanding into vinyl means you now own a plotter? Take a look at all the newbie forum threads and post any other questions you may have. Welcome to signs101!
 

Ogriv

Member
oracal 651 is what i use and it lasts up to 7 years
It will shrink over those 7 years!

I would not recommend using 651 for long-term signs. I'm not sure why anyone would use 651 for anything other than short-term signs. Perhaps those that use it for long-term signs can tell me why? I use Oracal 751 & 851 cast for all semi-permanent outdoor and long-term signs. The last thing I want is a customer coming back in a year and complaining of the vinyl shrinking and leaving glue lines around it's perimeter. I feel I owe it to my customer to determine his needs and supply the correct product, and then be paid accordingly. I am sure that there are exceptions to this rule if you dig deep enough, but to use 651 by default for outdoor long term signs is, in my opinion, an error.
 

iSign

Major Contributor
Ogriv said:
I would not recommend using 651 for long-term signs. I'm not sure why anyone would use 651 for anything other than short-term signs. Perhaps those that use it for long-term signs can tell me why?

I think cheap people use it to be cheap... there can't be any other reason to pass off an inferior product to a client who wants good sign work.


Ogriv said:
...to use 651 by default for outdoor long term signs is, in my opinion, an error.

I agree 100%
 

OldPaint

Major Contributor
si you need to post a couple of youre window splashes you do in paint......i do vinyl windows, only text and nothing more then intermediate vinyl. and ive had stuff last 5-6 yrs but ....651 IS THE LAST VINYL i will ever use.
A-6 AVERY will outlast it and negligable shinkage, even FELLERS BANNERCAL is better for windows. their yellow is one of the best....no translucency to it...
NO ONE PRODUCT IS GOOD FOR EVERYTHING.....
 

Bigdawg

Just Me
Tell ya' a story about our first long-term signage....
We removed the panels from a lighted sign and had to duplicate what was already there. It had only been up for 3 years. Having been in vinyl a whooping 3 weeks, we were, for sure, pretty clueless. I looked over the provided art and replicated it exactly. The big thing was he wanted it to show at night... of course I didn't even know transluscent vinyl existed at that point. So I replicated the artwork exactly (only better lines and better cutout) increasing what I was sure was the intentional gap between the green and purple (see picture 1) since that was how I thought you made it show at night!
As we all know now... it was shrinkage...
Here is the art we did using Oracal 651 (picture 2), but the motto of the story is - like OP said - no one product is good for everything! After a year it is looking okay, but only because we convinced the owner (and believed it ourselves) that the gaps were intentional to let the light through!!
 

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Cre8tive

New Member
I did some research at some local stores and the slaes rep recomended a vinyl called cal plus 4550 it's at resonable price has anyone used this vinyl before and is it worth it? Another thing I would like to know what else do I need to hang up a sign besides the artwork, vinyl, plotter do I need additional supplies (Window Juice?) What is it? And lastly any tips about hanging a sign.
 

WVB

Very Active Member
masking tape, scissors, needles (to remove airbubbles) step ladder and tape measure. The only time I use application fluid is for multi colored vinyls or when registration is a must. Otherwise I apply dry (yes to glass). This is an on going debate to wet or not to wet. Another topic not this one. And not to forget I bring my Bosch Construction Site radio for tuneage! Good luck.
 

Cre8tive

New Member
Almost ready to do my first window display but I dont know what to charge. Simple Text 55'W 20'H one color. Any suggestions.
 

WVB

Very Active Member
Is it local? Is it under 10 miles from your shop? How long do you think it will take you to install said vinyl?

If local = $88.88 with 30min install time
If not local = $88.88 w/ 30min install time plus $20 travel time for local long dist. If it is longer charge your regular shop rate x2 (to get there plus to get back) remember when you are not at shop you are losing money.
 

Flame

Major Contributor
I won't do glass without my Window Juice, but it IS something that is all personal preference. Trust me, we could all go on for days on whether to apply wet or dry. One of the biggest topics on here. lol. That's just my personal opinion on what to use.
 

OldPaint

Major Contributor
Cre8tive said:
Almost ready to do my first window display but I dont know what to charge. Simple Text 55'W 20'H one color. Any suggestions.
55 FEET X 20 FEET????????
[If local = $88.88 with 30min install time
If not local = $88.88 w/ 30min install time plus $20 travel time for local long dist] you doin inches i hope!!!!!!
if its feet @$5 sq ft youre lookin at $5500.00
if its inches $60.00..........
 

WVB

Very Active Member
I was doing inches with cast film sorry........ Cal film would run $5sqf plus install/travel/shop rate etc.
 

Cre8tive

New Member
I'm having a problem with cutting the vinyl? This is the first time a cut a sign this big 48 inches wide 22 height the problem I have is with the film. As the vinyl feeds it strays off in angle What should I do?
 

Flame

Major Contributor
You need to make sure that the vinyl is fed into the machine PERFECTLY straight. You should have some sight lines where the vinyl comes out at. Line up the edge with two of the lines (one on top and one of on bottom) or if you have a square edge cut on the vinyl, line that up with some defining square mark on the plotter. That way you know the vinyl is in straight and it won't go off too much. It's hard to get it 100% perfect, but you should be able to get it to track for atleast 10' without any issues. With practice maybe 25' or more.
 

Cre8tive

New Member
not so sure what you mean about sight lines. But on the plotter I have pich roller markings I so align those if that what you mean by sight lines. I normally dont have trouble cutting smaller pieces but larger one are trick. An other thing is ok to track marks at the end of the vinyl were the rollers go Could it be I applying too much pressure just wanted to know.
 

Cre8tive

New Member
Something I just though of would it make it easier on me to divide the sign in half and cut piece at a time and install in to two pieces. Any pros/cons to this method?
 
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