wall vinyl with dry erase laminate

insignia

New Member
I've got a customer wanting to do two decent sized walls (overall 9'x24') with a mural, but they need it to be dry-erasable, meaning we'll have to laminate whatever vinyl we go with with a dry-erase laminate, probably Wypet from Fellers. This is a permanent deal, I've already informed them we can't use a normal material like wallpaper or Phototex, it'll have to be a permanent non-removable vinyl and it will damage the wall when it comes down. But I'm still not sure what to use, I was thinking 3165RA but I've never done a wall mural with anything other than a media specifically for it so I'm worried about the seals lifting. Can anybody suggest a good material for this?

Thanks!
 

Circleville Signs

New Member
Is the wall painted?

If the customer is 100% aware of damage when this comes down, I'd say use a little primer 94 on all your seals.


Gary
 

insignia

New Member
It's painted plaster, not drywall. We're having it plastered since that will help minimize damage to the wall over drywall.

I never thought of Primer 94. Does it work okay on normal vinyl, I've never used it on anything but 180C. I assume it would, just wouldn't want to use it with a media with an incompatible adhesive...
 

petepaz

New Member
doesn't 3M have a specific vinyl for doing wall murals
i believe i read an article in one of the sign mags but i forget what the vinyl was called
pretty sure it was 3M
 

Circleville Signs

New Member
yes, they do - but I wouldn't lam it with dry erase lam :)

Primer 94 works on just about anything. Remember, it is just a liquid that increases the tack of the surface :) Make sure you get it wetter out properly.


Gary
 

insignia

New Member
doesn't 3M have a specific vinyl for doing wall murals
i believe i read an article in one of the sign mags but i forget what the vinyl was called
pretty sure it was 3M

That's the problem, most wall-specific vinyls can't be laminated. 3M does have a wall vinyl but I'm with Circleville, I'm almost positive you can't laminate, justs like Phototex.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Make sure the final coat of paint on the plaster wall is a good gloss alkyd enamel and you should be able to use any vinyl you want or feel comfortable using with a dry erase laminate.
 

Malkin

New Member
We have used the 3165ra (with 210 lam) for a set of wall murals in about 7 or 8 c-stores. It went over some painted drywall and some lammed vinyl we did a few years back. Turned out great with no issues.
 

ProColorGraphics

New Member
I tried some 3165ra for some small wall decals and they were falling off the next day. The walls were clean and everything. I have had good luck with the Kapco dry erase laminate.
 

Sticky Signs

New Member
First off, always make sure the wall is properly prepped. If it's not, walk away from the job otherwise you're asking for trouble. Regular latex paint is fine as long as it's not a matt finish. Eggshell, semigloss, gloss work fine. Gloss being the prefered paint. Schlack is pretty good too. Also, make sure the paint is dry. I don't just mean dry to the touch, I mean DRY.... The more time the better as latex can take months to fully cure. If you are in a rush, give the paint at least one day to dry and you should be ok.

Follow this advice and you'll have good luck with just about any kind of vinyl you decide to use...
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
First off, always make sure the wall is properly prepped. If it's not, walk away from the job otherwise you're asking for trouble. Regular latex paint is fine as long as it's not a matt finish. Eggshell, semigloss, gloss work fine. Gloss being the prefered paint. Schlack is pretty good too. Also, make sure the paint is dry. I don't just mean dry to the touch, I mean DRY.... The more time the better as latex can take months to fully cure. If you are in a rush, give the paint at least one day to dry and you should be ok.

Follow this advice and you'll have good luck with just about any kind of vinyl you decide to use...


Sticky.... you have a few conflicting ideas going on here. If the paint needs a few months to fully cure, how can you suggest that.... just because you're in a hurry... one day will work ?? There is no paint going on a raw wall that will be ready in 24 hours. None. There is also, no paint that will go over top another paint and be ready in 24 hours either.

Also, who ever told you to use shellac on dry wall ?? Basically, that's for wood products. In a bind, you can use it to stop staining or bleed through on surfaces, but I don't know of anyone that paints drywall, sheetrock or other surfaces of this nature with shellac. There are some primers out on the market that contain some shellac, but not to paint a wall with pure shellac.


Your advice on prepping the wall correctly is most important, but not using most of your practices.... sorry.
 

Sticky Signs

New Member
schelack a whacka ding dong!!!!
I work in the film industry so 99% of the stuff I work on was due yesterday. My position as Sign fabricator falls under the paint department so my direct boss is the "Head Paint Coordinator". He's been doing this a long time and knows his sh%t. He's also one of the first guys in the industry to buy his own sign making equipment. Started with a vinyl plotter years ago and now has a Printer, laminator etc, etc, etc. Point being, we are constantly in battle with time and have developed many tricks over the years that are proven to work. As I said, the more time paint has to dry, the better, but when in a rush, these methods are tried and true. Just ask the millions of viewers who this stuff every week.

PS, there is a difference between paint being dry to the touch and being fully cured...
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Sticky….

The main difference here is…. the OP wanted to know of methods that work for the long haul. Not some trick you or your boss concocted to get something to pass for a short period of time. The OP actually used the term that this project was ‘permanent’. Also, your boss’s credentials here don’t do anything for you.

As for your last statement… that was exactly my point and yet you still managed to make it about your earlier post which is still wrong.

I believe if the OP wanted tricks… he would’ve asked for anything no matter how dumb or stupid.

I guess what I’m saying is… try not to give someone recommendations as if this is some sort of fool proof method when in fact…. in your own words… these things are tricks you guys thought up to get out of a mess. It is not the preferred way to do anything unless you’re in a bind as you put it being needed yesterday. Then, it works.
 

Barbie2

New Member
avery

avery 2611. they can be applied to a wall about 30 days after painting, also you can print to the edge without worrying about curling. we used oracal and it can off. we outgassed
 

insignia

New Member
Malkin, your wall murals have held up for a few years using the 3165RA? Were they laminated? Do you know what kind of paint they were adhered to?

Barbie, can you laminate the Avery 2611 film? I considered it but I thought it was more of a short term product, can it be used long term?
 
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