What material to use for long lasting sun exposed sign?

[sinclairgraphics1]

I have a sign I'm re-doing for a client that's got probably 15 year old or more printed vinyl on it and obviously you can guess at this point it's pretty faded. One side is worse than the other and it cracked pretty bad as it gets much more sun exposure. We are re-using the .080 aluminum since it's specially die-cut for the design. My question is, what would be the best vinyl to last at least 10 years or more? Obviously 3m is good but was also looking at Oracal 3951 with 290 lam. I print on lots of Oracal products and have never had any issues. Would it help if I use automotive clear coat over the laminate to really make it last?? Or what about double-lamination? Never heard of anyone doing that but wondered if that would prolong the graphic. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[J Hill Designs]

hand painted, with a 'freshening up' in 8-10 years

 

[Billct2]

I think they got plenty of life out of the first set of prints, why do they think they should get more?
I guess an auto clear coat would hold up longer, but what's the cost ratio?

 

[Mosh]

NEVER....EVER tell a customer something is going to last ten years....9 years and 11 months you will be getting a call.

 

[John Butto]

Mosh is right...

NEVER....EVER tell a customer something is going to last ten years....9 years and 11 months you will be getting a call.

When you spend a $1000 for a TV, computer, they give you a year, and that is limited. Give them a year and tell him if he uses his Amex card they will add on a year.

 

[sinclairgraphics1]

I think they got plenty of life out of the first set of prints, why do they think they should get more?
I guess an auto clear coat would hold up longer, but what's the cost ratio?

They sure did and I just removed one of the cracked graphics earlier today and under that was evidence of the old hand painted sign. So they've been using this same sign panel since about 1992 when they opened. I know 10 years is probably a stretch but I want to use the best material to make it last. This client has never said anything about price with me so that's why I give them the best because I charge premium for it. My thought was the digital print on 3m with laminate, then an auto clear coat over that. Just not sure if I can go with a lacquer based clear coat in a can or spray it with my HVLP gun.

 

[Mike Paul]

Cast laminate over cast vinyl.

3M or Oracal will last the same amount of time.

Don't over think it... A new $50,000 truck comes with a 3 year warranty.

 

[Rick]

Cast laminate over cast vinyl.

3M or Oracal will last the same amount of time.

Don't over think it... A new $50,000 truck comes with a 3 year warranty.

 

[GAC05]

go this route and the customer will most likely die of old age before the signs need to be replaced.......

http://www.signsporcelain.com/


wayne k
guam usa

 

[visual800]

If your gonna use printed graphics do not clearcoat over laminated prints, use unlaminated.

 

[bob]

Here's a data point...

On the front nose of my horse trailer there's a full color contour cut full bleed print, solid colors as well as a full spectrum gradient. It was printed and applied in 2004, 10 years ago, on, if memory serves, Oracal 3951, with a Mutoh Falcon Outdoor. There is no lamination, just a coat of Clear Shield Original Formula Gloss.

This trailer sits outside, with the nose facing south, and gets pulled, in all weather, summer heat, winter snows, and pretty much everything in between. I was looking at this image just the other day and I thought it might have been starting to deteriorate a bit. But It was just the collection of bugs it has accumulated over the years. I washed them off and other than an almost microscopic degradation of a tiny section of the black full bleed at one point in the contour cut, it looks pretty much the same as when I made it up and applied it. If I weren't in the business, I would never have noticed it.

 

[sinclairgraphics1]

Here's a data point...

On the front nose of my horse trailer there's a full color contour cut full bleed print, solid colors as well as a full spectrum gradient. It was printed and applied in 2004, 10 years ago, on, if memory serves, Oracal 3951, with a Mutoh Falcon Outdoor. There is no lamination, just a coat of Clear Shield Original Formula Gloss.

This trailer sits outside, with the nose facing south, and gets pulled, in all weather, summer heat, winter snows, and pretty much everything in between. I was looking at this image just the other day and I thought it might have been starting to deteriorate a bit. But It was just the collection of bugs it has accumulated over the years. I washed them off and other than an almost microscopic degradation of a tiny section of the black full bleed at one point in the contour cut, it looks pretty much the same as when I made it up and applied it. If I weren't in the business, I would never have noticed it.

That's impressive, especially on a trailer lasting that long! I have used the ClearJet spray on several graphics and outdoor signs but it's only been a few years since I've started using it. I never knew that stuff was that long lasting. So sounds like the best way to go, based on what you and others have said is the print on Oracal or 3m, no lamination, and use ClearJet or Clear coat over it. I think that's going to be the winner for this one. Thanks for all your help!

 

[bob]

That's impressive, especially on a trailer lasting that long! I have used the ClearJet spray on several graphics and outdoor signs but it's only been a few years since I've started using it. I never knew that stuff was that long lasting. So sounds like the best way to go, based on what you and others have said is the print on Oracal or 3m, no lamination, and use ClearJet or Clear coat over it. I think that's going to be the winner for this one. Thanks for all your help!

Don't use ClearJet on any sort of solvent print. Use Clear Shield Original Formula. Or some other brand of water based liquid laminate. Do not use a solvent based liquid laminate on solvent prints.

Thin it until it's the consistency of milk and mop it on with a foam brush. Use alternating horizontal and then vertical strokes to even it out. Don't worry overmuch if it's not entirely smooth, the stuff will level out as it dries. Just make sure that you have complete coverage.

 

[sinclairgraphics1]

Don't use ClearJet on any sort of solvent print. Use Clear Shield Original Formula. Or some other brand of water based liquid laminate. Do not use a solvent based liquid laminate on solvent prints.

Thin it until it's the consistency of milk and mop it on with a foam brush. Use alternating horizontal and then vertical strokes to even it out. Don't worry overmuch if it's not entirely smooth, the stuff will level out as it dries. Just make sure that you have complete coverage.

My printer is a latex, not sure if that matters. Where do you get Clear Shield from? I think the place I used to work used this on there canvas prints. It was a white pasty liquid that they would roll on. Looked horrible at first but would always dry nice and clean.

 

[bob]

My printer is a latex, not sure if that matters. Where do you get Clear Shield from? I think the place I used to work used this on there canvas prints. It was a white pasty liquid that they would roll on. Looked horrible at first but would always dry nice and clean.

You can get Clear Shield at most any sign supply. I don't recall every seeing one that didn't carry it. It comes in a number of different formulations. I've tried a few and I'd strongly recommend Original Formula.

That white pasty liquid most likely was Modge Podge or the equivalent. Used to coat and often add texture to art prints. Near as anyone can tell the stuff is indistinguishable from Elmer's glue. Not even close to the same thing as a liquid laminate such as Clear Shield.