Recent content by DL Signs

Like a lot of paints today, I would have thought that would repel anything because, well... It's a protective coating. Impressive, and that silver looks pretty sweet. Never tried anything over bed liner. I've used the 3M8624 print vinyl WhiteHaus mentioned in the past on some pretty heavily...

A lot of sanding & work to just blow it with bed liner. That's gotta be a show quality lookin' trailer :rolleyes:

It depends... And there's several different levels of products. Professionally applied ceramic coatings are the worst. They need to be wet sanded and buffed to remove, they can last 3-5 years before they start breaking down enough to remove easier (without sanding or buffing), so the best of...

THIS.... Great point that we often forget!!!! Fresh paint jobs get cut & buffed, then that awesome ceramic coating, that new car, truck, or trailer hits the dealership, and the first thing they do is send it off to detailing for ceramic to really make it shine... Comes to you for graphics, no...

There's no way I'd do it that soon. Grew up in a body shop. Paints take 7-10 days to fully cure in optimal conditions, even catalyzed automotive paints. I wouldn't lay in less than two weeks bare minimum, 30 days is best, the longer the better.

DiNoc is good stuff. It holds up well, even here in Wisco with harsh winters & hot summers. If a sign ever gets damaged, hit by a vehicle, mower, plow, whatever, it can be replaced.

Acetone leaves no residue, use that to clean everything from painting to welding. Denatured is another good option if you don't want to use something as hot as acetone, it's a little more tame. Back in the day we used to use whatever thinner or reducer that the finish used for final clean.

Dumpster food.... All of it. We have a WM recycling center half a block away, and they don't even want release liner because of the coatings on it, costs more to recycle than it's worth.

It's got a 10 year rating, and with how good it sticks it's great for print-cut applications. Just be aware, 175 is only semi-removable, i.e. it's permanent. I use it a lot, but only on stuff I know will never have to be removed (or that I won't have to remove anyway). Another thing I found is...

Standard vinyls you can if you need to, but you never want to apply vinyl with air release channels wet. Liquid gets trapped in the channels, gets sealed in, and causes premature failure.

I use Affinity all day, every day, it's been my main design software for several years now. It will open Adobe files, albeit some better than others, kind of depends on the version of Adobe they were created in (legacy created ones are usually bad), and effects. My workflow is done with mostly...

Been having issues (hit & miss) for a couple years now. Nothing has changed on our process, just seems like the poly we're getting from the same sources, same brands, are just getting more problematic to work with.

Three basic options to get both lit & unlit colors close. 1) Color/ white/ color if you have white capability, do rich black on both color layers to make it opaque as possible. The white ink layer keeps the top color correct, when lit the light passes through both color layers so it's less...

Look at films used for roll up banner stands. Used to use this stuff a LOT, for everything from pictures & posters to calendars (and of course roll-ups). Lays flat, prints beautiful, grey backed for block-out, you can use just two sided tape or a hole punch for budget, or grommets for hanging...

If you open a can of Pepsi and there's a finger floating in it, do you put fault on Pepsi, or blame the store you bought it from who can't see inside the sealed container? So what did the vendor do besides tell you what what the average lifespan is? Was it something they should have been aware...