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Wow, might be a firmware issue if I were to take a stab in the dark. Service mode: Hold Func1 and Func3 when booting, let go when you hear beep/firmware version shows on screen. Go to menu and should be an extra page for #ADJUST, #TEST, & #PARAMETER

Wrong thread, wrong printer. Sending me the exact thing in DM isn't going to get me to send you a manual or help you. If you cannot follow the most basic of instructions, you're going to need a professional to do it.

Joy, wonder if a connection got bumped. Bust of luck. Thankfully the heaters are a cobbled together doohickey instead of an internal printhead heater line.

Managed to figure out how to generate printer definition files for most RIPs, so that should help a ton. Right now I am looking into making a kit for old Oce Arizona and JFX200/JFX500 printers to convert over to modern heads/electronics. Seems both those printers are filling the market at a...

This is a thread about a JFX200 EX series printer, not a UCJV300. Since you cannot be bothered to check such a simple thing, I think giving you a service manual would just be a liability. While I am happy to welcome new forum members, people who just join, I get at least 2-3 people a week...

The way the lines are run on the 330 is pretty dang tight. Had issues where a line got kinked or a damper got pulled up causing the head to have ink starvation. The first thing I would do is to make sure dampers are clipped in properly and lines look to be straight.

Might be easier to find a local supplier, and not a rare part by any stretch. Plus, being in New Zealand and all that.

If you replace the fuse, make sure to use the same amperage. If the fuse is bridged, it will blow your MOSFET board that fires the heads, another $2K+ part. Worth trying, but sound like you might have a big project on your hand.

If it is a printer you have guaranteed work for, might be worth running. If it were a case of 'it would be cool to have this working so I could print a few things' or similar, I would hold off. Not sure how things are in New Zealand, but the cost of the parts is close to what I'd pay to get 2...

If it's a MKII, do not take the unit apart. A MK1 is more doable. That said, if you torque the frame wrong and wreck alignment, can take days to get things running right. Seen this on both variants when it went wrong, and the printer basically became a parts unit. Quick addendum: The cost of...

As one of the few techs that doesn't charge >$3K for a head swap on the UJF-6042MK1, I have worked on quite a few. Their heads are pretty durable, but better to use >10mL of ink a day than to lose a head. Aftermarket ink helps a lot in costs too, less stuff expiring 3 months after you get it as...

Typically has to be done by a technician using the Mimaki software tools.

Agfa stuff is so well built it makes me cry happy tears. I still have a good pile of argon lasers from some of their old offset gear (that work). Worked in electronics recycling and the machining on their stuff always amazed me. Way outside of my budget, but I am on the redneck level of printing...

When I was in training, the damper fill procedure was a convoluted process, and they mentioned that if air got into the circulation loop that it could cause the head to bleed like that. Definitely check with your tech on firmware, maybe it made the process easier/more effective. Circulation...

Trying to read the service guide for the controller board was a bloody nightmare, just decided to print targeting crosshairs for head alignment as the built-in patterns were just awful. Got things within 2/180th of an inch then used built in patterns. Had issues with bad sealing on capping...

This is the wanted to buy forum. :rolleyes: Also, 2025-2020=5

Finally bit the bullet and decided to get a dedicated UVDTF Haolic branded printer instead of printing films on the JFX200. Holy hell, buying a used, rusted Chinese printer was a saga. Took a gamble at $500 and it looks like it spent a few days outside. Control board kit alone was worth that...

Sounds like there might be air getting into the white circulation loops if I were to hazard a guess. I'd be willing to bet on the pumps myself.

If the temperature swing is big enough, you might be getting condensation in other parts of the printer. That can cause MAJOR (expensive) issues if that water builds up in moving parts or electronics. Might want to invest in heating the room containing the printer.

Not a helluva lot of difference between Roland and Mutoh on old DX4/5/7 head machines when it comes to things like parts to be honest. Older printers as well, expect to need more maintenance overall.