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While the cricut stuff is a crazy racket and their materials and consumables are obscene, still nothing compared to the hustle moms selling $20K DTF setups to people. Gotten so many printers for almost nothing as a result of that racket.

Weirdness continues, the cre8tiveskill website is a hot mess of crappy templates, stolen images and AI. Seems their contact info is in India. Yay Delaware corps. nobody to bug on the phone, yet. Nice thing about AI is I can use bots too. =)

I called DTGPro and asked them to tell their marketing company to knock this AI stuff off. It was fun annoying people here, so maybe they'll take the hint. Also reported a ton of their fake google reviews.

As a guy who DIYs everything, I also understand the risks. Simple fact of the matter, when installing an expensive and fragile part, experience is something that can be well worth the cost.

New cables are always recommended as those flat flexy bastards are so easy to damage and short out connections. Temp errors when the head isn't overheating are usually caused by shorted thermistor circuits in my experience. If you toast the circuit, the whole head isn't easily repairable. When...

So, is the user dtgpro the unofficial one?

Smells like cheese.

Got tired of their dongle, so just using a virtual one. Not posting crack instructions, since I am not going to encourage people to steal software. Just using it for my own convenience. The software is simple, but the $500 price tag for such a simple program isn't great. Plus, some of the...

I'm going to have to give you a solid C- on your report. Got a weird AI vibe here, and the company address is just a sketchy 'virtual office' setup.

What's the MSRP on a Karen Read? Is this some kind of mail in rebate?

Working on mine and I found the tubing they used in that batch of peristaltic pumps (2021 tagged model) was awful. All flattened out, so I rebuilt all the pumps with Tygon. Still don't know why they didn't use gravity to feed those damn things.

Recheck your nozzle numbers, the charts can be a bit of a pain. Usually works if just programming out a few nozzles. Dedicated Mimaki forum here btw https://www.signs101.com/forums/mimaki.208/

Firmware is what resides in the printer's EPL board (basically the motherboard), RasterLink is the RIP software that lives on your PC. The code you're getting is F(use) 2 on the slider board being blown. Bad heads can develop short-circuits and that fuse is to protect the slider. Nothing to do...

The gully annotated parameter list itself isn't public to my knowledge, or in circulation.

Print in unidirectional mode and then unidirectional but reverse direction. If printing to the left, likely the left side one and vice versa. Setting in the Q menu in RasterLink.

Probably dampers, could be ink starvation. On test prints the ink has a chance to catch up so to speak.

The NCU is the black slot sensor between the capping station and the platen.

Might be ink on the Nozzle Check Unit LED or receiver, can just disable it to bypass the code. Most people turn it off since it takes a while to run nozzle checking and they don't like the added print time.

Just using generic HosonSoft controllers, so 'most brands'.

You can run the printer in unidirectional mode and probably be fine, will just be really slow. Just need to make sure it is configured with only 4 colors, not 8. Try before buying of course.