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So turning off MAPS all the way, the first inch of my prints are super comparable to the Roland's wet glossy look: After the first inch or so though, it devolves into the more textured look: The gloss layer also seems thinner at the end of the print, looking more like a clear coat than a...

Maybe I'll try messing with head height. Might be MAPS as well. I'm probably also using the wrong phrasing. I'm moreso talking about the reflection on the gloss being feathered/textured rather than the gloss itself being feathered/oversprayed/overlapped

They do look great, and I guess it's ultimately just coming down to personal preference. I'm just referring to this texture. It could also be MAPS, I think I still have mine set to like 60% so maybe I'll set it to 0% and see if it smooths out any further.

Mimaki prints - see how the gloss is more feathered/textured compared to the original post image

Sorry, just edited my post. Let me get a better image on a thicker print as well

600x1200, 1200x1200, set to gloss, overprints, tried with and without pullbacks. It's just like, a texture on the gloss. You can see in the above image attached of the Roland print the reflection is so clean, with hard edges. You can notice on the Mimaki gloss print below, the reflection is more...

I switched to STS inks and this problem is gone for me. Gloss sheets slide right off each other even after days stacked. I even have my UV percentage down to -40% for gloss prints to make them a little extra smooth looking, and it remains hard and clear, no sticking. It's truly Mimaki OEM inks...

The attached image is from a Roland Printer, I'm wondering if there's any way to get a comparable level of "wetness" in the gloss? Or am I doomed to the weird, textured gloss forever.. I've gotten sort of close with STS inks and my UV lamps set to -40% but that's only in comparison to my own...

I appreciate the insight either way. Definitely going to think about a better way to rid myself of static while rewinding though. Thanks again! So far tapping on the back guide rail has been sufficient. New Y motor fixed the problem

Summer :P I'm in Michigan. Humidity in my shop (garage) ranges between 40% and 80%

I'd imagine if you took it off and left it sitting on its face long enough you'd notice more curling/warping in other areas. I think it gets the edge first just because that's the first part that air can get underneath? Idk I'm guessing there, lol. It won't do that when it's stuck to something...

If there's no difference in ink height (unless I'm misunderstanding your original post) I'm leaning more toward its curing too much. If you take that sticker off and flip it over you might be able to see it better on the back, it kind of embosses the vinyl along with it when overcuring in my...

I run into this on my 300 sometimes. I think it's caused by the UV lamps being set too high, and frying/curling the vinyl. Try lowering the UV % in Setup and experiment with that. You want it high enough to still have a rock solid varnish, but low enough that it doesn't overcure and cause it to...

I am able to run a full print and cut job no problem, but if I try multiple executions, or multiple different jobs queued up, it will stop mid cut on the first job, before starting the second row of sheets. It switches to local and clears the data for the rest of the cut job. If I were to switch...

My electrician buddy has already come by and made sure everything is operating properly, I'm fairly certain any shock is me absorbing a bunch of static from the vinyl rolling backwards so fast (I do it with the cutting arm out) and then shocking the machine when it builds up too much. If I tap...

Seems fine inside, which is discouraging I guess. Not sure if buying a new motor will yield any results or just be a waste of $500

I took the motor out and it doesn't seem to show any resistance but I edited my previous reply to you to include a picture, which shows the black cord bent and slightly cracked. Which could totally be the culprit... I'm probably going to take off the insulation from the bent part and see if...

Don't think it's a faulty ground because it is never constant, only a shock specifically after rewinding 20+ feet backwards thru the machine. and I've tried an outlet tester and everything seems okay. It's never shocked me in any scenario other than rewinding backwards at high speeds for a long...

Good to know I'm not the only one / doesn't seem like an electrical issue. Yeah I've been tapping on the guide rail in the back to release static in the days prior to the motor fully shitting the bed.

It doesn't seem to look out of the ordinary at all - sorry to keep barraging with questions but you think it's the best bet to just replace the motor? Edit: I retract this statement, lol. The black cord was bent up against the back of the chassis (I'm bending it on purpose in the pic so you...