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You've always got to remember the blade needs time to turn. The old gerber tangentials could just about do it as they rotated the blade to match the angle being cut and were slow, but small angles will always be a problem.also got to make sure the point of the blade is still there - that's an...

Well.. A vortex cooler is a pretty simple thing - basically just a tube with air being added unequally so it rotates - just like a dyson vaccum cleaner - cold air comes out the front - hot out the back. They work very well on aluminium, but the main thin to think about when cutting aluminium...

More the sensor itself - this is the complete issue - is it a red dot (laser) or invisible (or led)? Looks like it might be a mechanical fault of the overall assembly. Can you take it apart any more?

They've not really changed technology over the years - still virtual serial ports and hpgl underneath. But.. Tbh - it's a plotter with a blade - it's pretty simple technology wise - just a few bells & whistles being added over the years.

Do you have any pictures? Most of these "eyes" are standard components rather than specific to the machine. Usually the number of wires gives a clue. 4 = led and diode, 2 = diode, etc.

Flexi10 will work with the newer graphtecs - just use the machine profile closest to the one you've got. Of course newer functions won't work, but it'll cut.

put anything on the screen, click cut - open production manager, click on add setup, vinyl cutters, select the closest model to yours and you're done. I'm guessing you've never used Flexisign before, as these are basic things you need to know in order to use any design program.

Flexi10 will work fine.. Think it goes upto the 5000.. Just select that and you'll be fine.. Obviously can't use any of the bells and whistles if you've got a newer one, but it'll cut.

Whilst I've not got that machine - I've had similar problems.. Usually 1 of 2 things. 1. Bad connectors - corrosion or a pin has been pushed back in the shell (very common) 2. A bad earth/gnd connection if the machine uses this configuration. Easiest way to check is to disconnect wires...

Going by the age of the machine - prob all the electrolytic caps will have gone by now.. Either replace them (pretty cheap, but you need to get the boards out.. Or get a new Psu / Stepper drivers. The psu should be relatively simple - it should have specs on it - find either one that does it...

Hopefully you haven't updated the firmware as quite often firmware updates are primarily to stop non oem ink use, this can also affect the ink types offered. A full reset will sometimes fix it, but you'll need to set all the limits again

Hmm.. Tbh it's most lightly how the usb port is set up - might need either 7 or 8 bit data and handshaking. You have to check what the gs24 needs serial wise - then configure the port to suit. Looks like most of it is working, but it's not thinking data is being sent until the first CR point...

Tbh - sounds pretty simple. Its a psu fault.. But.. The psu is working, so that leaves the cables/connectors connecting the psu to the the board. When you say electrical cabinet - I'm guessing the psu is part of that, so I'd check the voltages coming from the psu into the connectors. When...

Another possibility is increased friction or reduced stepper power - could result in lost steps..

On comport & mains cable.. The older things get, the more susceptible they become to transmitted noise.. The big smoothing caps are one of the main issues - the esr will rise dramatically with age.. Most electrolytic caps last 10 - 15 years.. Once you go beyond that it's a downward spiral - the...

Tbh you might be experiencing interference.. As it's a VERY old machine theres virtually a 100% chance that the electrolytic caps in the psu and other circuits have now started to fail - it's very common in vintage equipment - so you'll now be getting ripple in internal power lines which does...

I'd keep it simple.. Stick some thin vinyl behind to increase the contrast

Wearing cotton instead of synthetics is also a good idea.. Lol

Easy solution.. Have a piece of metal connected to earth via a high value resistor - give it a touch before working on something - kills the static and doesn't give you or machines a zap. For machines that zap - just put a copper rod connected to earth in the same fashion to discharge...

Of course, you can usually use a newer cutter in the software.. Most of the time the commands sent are the same. Just find the next model that is supported - the worst it can do is not work