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Difficult to tell you how to do it when we cannot see what you had to work with from the start. ;)

Black and white get correctly inverted here. Would it be possible to post the file (or part of it)? You may have to zip it.

In later versions (don't remember for how long this has worked with vector objects), the easiest way of doing this is probably to use Invert Colors. Can be found in Effects > Transform.

I think you have to give us some more details, Craig. Are you talking about bitmaps or vector objects? Are spot colors involved or is it just CMYK/RGB? What is the purpose for inverting the colors? Do the colors need to be truly inverted, or is it enough with an inverted look on screen? What...

I have a VJ 626UF and have lost a color a couple of times after switching from totally empty to new cartridge. Not sure why but I suspect air had somehow got inte the system, or possibly that the last ink in the cartridge had become viscous and clogged the head. Unfortunately, the only way I've...

Try this: https://mygraphtec.jp/site_download/manual/FC9000-UM-152-ENG.pdf Chapter 7.6

I agree with cornholio, Flexi or the cutter is "correcting" the blade direction before starting to cut. Pretty sure you can change this behavior, either in Flexi's settings (don't use Flexi myself) or in the cutter's setup menu.

If your plotter happens to be a Mimaki, you can use their FineCut plugin to cut directly from CorelDRAW.

The fact that actual cut length differs from expected length is something we have to live with on all roll cutters, and it may even differ slightly depending on what material we cut. And just as "Rodan68" and "signstation" said, it can (and should) be adjusted to be as accurate as possible...

I may not be the person to give the best advice since I neither have Flexi nor the CJV150, but... (writing as i think) ...I once had a Mimaki JV33-130 and a Mimaki CG-FXII plotter (still do) and my workflow was to create everything in CorelDRAW including the "FineCut_TomboGroup" cut marks...

I suppose you print and read registration marks in all four corners? Is it equally bad on left, middle, right part of the material? Is it better near the registration marks or same for the whole design?

HP Latex printers are nice, but be aware that print quality (details) may not be up to par with a solvent printer, and that the material will be exposed to a lot more heat when curing, so it may not be the best solution in all cases. True that they are cheap(er) but note that they are...

SignLab e6 Expert version 6.1, revision 6 from November 2002. I use the generic GPGL driver but I wouldn't be surprised if there is a specific CE2000 driver too.

Really hope you find a solution. I may be totally wrong here (long time since I played with parallel and serial cables) but if you manage to use the parallel interface I don't think you need to set these parameters. :rolleyes: My old FC4100-130 is connected from the computer's USB port via an...

I guess it could be worth trying HPGL instead of GPGL, it is more of a "standard" language, and use a generic HPGL (HPGL/1) driver and simply "print" to the plotter. Have a vague memory that I tried it many many years ago. (I have always used GPGL with my Graphtec plotters though, because it...

I found a file called S610617U.exe, could that be something?

Couldn't find any disks either unfortunately. Must be fifteen or twenty years since I sent my Graphtec 2100-50 "to a better place", and even though I have a bad habit storing old disks, these must have gone the same way. Still have an old FC4100-130 that I use now and then though, since it can...

Had a quick look but couldn't find CM1 anywhere. :( Hope you find a solution.

Sorry about the delay. Here's a link to WeTransfer, Cutting Master 2, builds 1.60 and 1.81. Please let me know how it works. (Wouldn't be surprised if I do have CM1 somewhere, stored on a floppy disk or two. :) )

I don't have the first version but found that I do have Cutting Master 2, if that is of any help? Not a CD but two 70MB Zip files with the 1.60 and 1.81 builds.