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Ballnose, about 3/8'' deep. no epoxy. Just routed it and used it.

That's what I have on mine; 3/4'' PVC. it works fine.

I specialize in dimensional signs; CNC routed, sandblasted, hand carved, HDU, EPS foam etc. Primarily they will be for the net, like my website, facebook etc. But some would be for print quality in a portfolio.

Yes, it was taken with my phone.

Thanks, It's a Samsung LG Treasure (LGL52VL)

Hi all, This is a sign I just completed. I need a camera for taking good quality photos of my sign work and my phone camera just isn't cutting it. I'm looking for a decent camera, with optical zoom, maybe an "SLR" in the $200-$300 range. What would you recommend? Thanks!

Weldon; is that epoxy?

I need to glue the grey 4.5'x2.5' latex-painted 1'' HDU panel to the face of the larger 6x4 latex-painted sign. I think gorilla glue would hold very well, but am afraid it might expand too much and I have known liquid nails to get hard and detach. Would you use silicone? Screwing it down is not...

I guess I could hire another shop with a bigger plotter to cut it for me.

I would rather cut it out of translucent vinyl but my plotter only cuts 24'' and I would have to panel/seam it.

Yes, there would be solid white vinyl on the negative space. My thinking on putting the print on the backside or "reverse" is that it would last longer. no? Otherwise I would just use white polycarb and put normal translucent vinyl on the fronts of the faces.

Fluorescent tubes. and they are flat faces, but the cabinet is 20'' so I would think there would be no hot spots. No?

4x8 clear polycarb faces with translucent PRINTS on the backside. How long should they last? The cabinet is 20'' deep, Thanks!

The graphic on my trucks window has been on for a couple years but still looks fine. It's beginning to come loose at the top edge. Is there some type of adhesive I can dab up there so I can get a few more months out of it before trashing and re-doing it? Thanks! :)

Duh, I've been running that router so long, that I momentarily forgot what I cut my teeth on, I have used my Porter Cable oscillating sabre saw like forever. Yeah that would work. But a sample just arrived, about an hour ago, of some new "U-blast" high tack sandblast stencil and It's very thin...

The first problem with that, is my router only cuts about 50'' wide and this thing is to be over 60''. The next thing is, how would you gluie it to the concrete tower? Gorilla Glue? Liquid Nails?

Please excuse my ignorance; what is "ACM"? Just a sheet of 3M controltac or something?

This isn't a ''woodgrain'' as in a sandblasted look, but it's an old job I did before my Aspire upgrade, I had to outline the letters to compensate for about half the radius of the large bullnose, then I profile-cut the letters with a smaller bullnose for a cleaner look...

The webpage doesn't seem to list a thickness. https://ublaststencil.com/ For years I have used Anchor #153 for pre-paints and #155 for raw substrates. I also tried Hartco 930 and 425 while Anchor's factory was down for awhile and I couldn't get it (Hartco is JUNK) I think the Anchor is 35 or...

Has anyone ever used this brand on raw HDU? https://ublaststencil.com/product/623/