Search results

Maybe they are looking for this guy: http://www.680news.com/news/local/article/388476--1-dead-in-double-stabbing-in-vaughan-police-seek-person-of-interest

+1 on the dibond etc but anyone using the 6mm or 10mm product out there with the corrugated polyeth core? Here they call it Alumalite. I like it when sliding panels into aluminum extrusion frames...fits snug without the need to shim the 3mm solid core product.

3651 Clear I know it's a different usage, but have any of you used 3651 clear for reverse printed window graphics (ie: face mounted on inside of window). I've struggled finding a clear SAV that is nice and clear when face mounted but doesn't need to be applied wet. 3620 doesn't cut it.

I recently had a 'full' demo of the printer at ND Graphics in Toronto with a rep from Mimaki and a local gent. I went into it wanting this machine to make up for some of the deficiencies in the L25500 but came away generally unimpressed with the Mimaki. PROS -output was indeed...

Looks fantastic and thanks for sharing it. And if printed mesh can be used in place of other netting, that's awesome! Not sure what the moaning is about, what is our value proposition if there is no value in aesthetics? There wouldn't be much use for the stuff we all make if...

Lean StartUp by Eric Reis. Don't let the title fool you, you don't need to be starting your company to enjoy this one. Have a look at the first chapter on Amazon to see if it's right for you.

Yeah, I think you put us onto that formula for d/s pole banners, it's been really good so thanks again...they can take enough wind to take the freakin' pole down :) Our background (being AQ) led us into POP for fashion retail here in Canada where we need a nice low profile, dead flat d/s banner...

Has anyone gone from an eco-solvent machine (any make) to using HP Latex machines then abandoned the HP to go back to an eco-solvent machine? I'm talking about having first hand experience with both and then opting for an eco-sol set up? We aren't abandoning our HP L25500s, no machine can do...

'we are aware of the problem' Same issue here on the bw251. Smells like skunk road kill. I got the same reply from all graphic supplies 'we are aware of the problem'. When I asked why they didn't make ME aware of the problem when I ordered they, no joke, told me that 'everyone' knows and is...

Hey Josh, thanks for the insight and tips on min drying power. I'd never thought of that. Do you see any reason not to run the drying module at 55C/131F all the time? Except for on uncoated papers, I've been cranking it up lately and all seems good. -------------------------------

Hey Josh, thanks for the insight and tips on min drying power. I'd never thought of that. Do you see any reason not to run the drying module at 55C/131F all the time? Except for on uncoated papers, I've been cranking it up lately and all seems good.

Hey Fanaticus, Your post hits home...I see the bike is your outlet :) I'm not going to 'tell you what to do', all I can do is share my experiences. I went through a time in my life where perfectionism got in the way of me achieving my goals and getting things done. Its something I still find...

what rip are you using? ONYX 10 makes marks that are 23mm long where the max for the CE5000 is 20mm. Stupid workaround is to put little bits of vinyl on the ends of each mark, but it works.

40-45% humidity, temps vary humidity we keep at 40-45%, temps vary from 18C to 25C. We have them in a separate room that is about 300sq ft. No problems to report. I think the humidity is key to succesful prints, but that's just my opinion.

Thanks much.

Just enough but not too much. Very nice. Air Zero sticks in my mind the most. Question. Why is it that many wrap designs out there have the brand name or logo shooting off on an angle? I admit they catch my eye and I like the look, but is there a technical reason? All I can think of is...

Cool. Thanks Pete, I appreciate that.

gnemmas, the opacity issue is the one I need to overcome now. I've got the clear cling reverse printed then backed with white but the show through stinks. I have an old sample that appears to be screen printed and there is some kind of blockout in there but no one seems to know what it might be...

sfr, thanks for all the input. No white ink here. This is what I've tested and found so far: -full coverage solid print with print side on window results in low/no cling -heavy coverage with print side on window resulted in a fair bit of ink left on window -clear cling backed with white adhesive...

Interested to know if anyone out there has tips on producing double sided window clings (digitally printed). Has anyone run cling vinyl back through their machine? 'Laminated' two pieces of cling together? I noticed in some past threads there was discussion about laminating adhesive vinyl...