Search results

I'm not familiar with the infiniti printers at all but when you mention "air-pump" this suggests that the printer uses negative pressure to hold the ink meniscus at the heads. There's probably an adjustment for the negative pressure and it sounds like you may have too much negative pressure...

Easiest way to start isolating this? Simply switch positions between the suspected bad line and one that you know is good. i.e. Connect the cyan or yellow line and damper to magenta head position and vice versa. If the new color drops out in this position then you know that the problem is from...

Hey Press52, I know that you said that you don't believe that this is overspray, however there are two simple things that I would suggest that you check: 1. Double-check that the Head Gap physically matches what you have dialed in on the control panel. JV5's set the gap using the little...

Hey Netrave, Unfortunately neither are in your area but I'd suggest making contact with both ITNH (in Manchester, NH) and InkCupsNow (in Danvers, MA) as both specialize in industrial printing applications and sell a lot of these units - They probably even keep some of the spares in stock. ITNH...

Solvent inks dry very quickly so in order to prevent them clogging in the Heads they have to be kept moving. The long and the short of it is; Either move your ink by spitting it onto banners and wraps which you can sell or the printer will move it for you by spitting it into the waste bucket...

An experienced tech can usually do this in about 30-45 minutes. Doing this yourself will probably take quite a bit longer but here are the steps I recommend: First make sure you have a pocket microscope of at least 35x mag. It should be the kind that gives a reversed image of what you're...

I don't quite understand which parts of the printer ran into each other but it sounds like one of the following may have happened: 1. Head Cable got tweaked and is now slight askew and shorting across multiple tracks on the Head 2. As above but has now fried the contacts on the end of the cable...

I agree - Definitely deflected nozzles. Likely this was caused by sub-par ink; there may be particulates partially clogging the nozzles or something wrong in the ink chemistry may have started to eat away at the edges of the nozzle orifices. It appears that this problem occurred while you had...

Good suggestions from Artbot - Looking at the pictures this does indeed look like some odd Capping issue - Check all the Capping positions under the #ADJUST menu and in particular make sure that the Caps are separating slightly from the Heads in the ABSORB position. Also check the FLASH position...

So the size that you enter doesn't really matter all that much - it's mostly useful if you're trying to determine whether an Encoder problem is occuring nearer to the Capping Station or further out along the strip. The "E" number of zero indicated that the Encoder Sensor wasn't reading the...

Hey Artbot, Robert is correct, could be encoder related, especially as it is intermittent. When its in its non-working phase, go to the #TEST menu and run the ENCODER TEST. When its done you'll get both an "M" number (Motor Encoder) and an "E" number (Linear Encoder). If the E number comes back...

Booting the printer with FUNCTION and REMOTE held down will put the machine temporaily into Service Mode (it will exit when you next reboot it). To leave Service Mode on permanently, boot with END and ENTER held, now go to SYSTEM PARAMETER, scroll to the 2nd to last item in the menu which will...

Hey Tooserious, Unfortunately the picture you were trying to post did not show up, but that said I have seen bad batches of ink cause overspray on Mimaki printers before. One trick you could try is to swap the dampers and ink lines between the yellow head and another channel that is working...

When JV3s fail to start up like the way you describe then it usually means that there is a short-circuit in the lines that provide power to the print-heads. If you're lucky, then you may just have fried the print (this may not sound very lucky but it's still better luck than having damaged the...

In my experience servicing JV33/CJV/JV5 machines a frequent cause of dropout is the solenoid valves on the back of the cartridges failing to open fully. On many occasions I've been able to rectify this by putting a small e-clip bewteen the actuator arm and the plunger on the cartridge valve to...

Agreed on the Crossover Cable. Better still, install a second ethernet card in the PC that runs the printer and then use one card to connect to the printer (by crossover) and the other to connect out to your file servers, rest on network etc.

Question: Are you running the printer in Bi-directional mode? If so, try switching to Uni-directional and see if that makes the problem go away. My hunch is that the media is buckling up between the pinch rollers and is closer to the Heads in these area - This means that the alignment of the...

The real trick here is to determine exactly what the printer does not like about the Cartridge. The LCD can't display much information at one time so what you need to do after installing the cartridge is to hit the ENTER key on the control panel to display more information about the problem...

I haven't worked on enough Rolands, especially the new ones to give an authoritative opinion but I have worked on Mimaki's for years. Back when I was still working for Mimaki USA and the JV33 came out, all us techs were afraid that it was going to put us out of a job! Construction of the machine...

I don't know any techs in the Cleveland, OH area but I'd suggest calling Brian at Pioneer Supply Company in Pittsburgh, PA; about 2 hours travel away. I've worked with for years and he does good work. http://www.pioneersupply.com/?page_id=1567 In any case, yes, it does sound like the...