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Given that you say this happens only on banner material then I suspect that the way the edges of the material have been trimmed are the issue - I've seen this plenty of times before where tiny little fibers and fuzz sticking out the edges of the material brush against the heads and flick...

Hey there, From memory I'm pretty certain that black/Magenta go on top and Cyan/yellow go on the bottom. Left/right doesn't matter as the there is only one pump motor per color pair so they can't be controlled individually anyway. cheers, Dave M

If I'm reading this correctly. It sounds like the printer is booting with the Head Cables disconnected, but fails to boot when the LM/LC head is connected, is that correct? If this is the case then it sounds like your LM/LC head has an electrical fault and will need to be replaced. If you have...

Anyone have this? Trying to learn a little more about this model. Thanks!

From what you describe it sounds like the wiper motor is getting jammed and causing an error. Unfortunately when errors occur on JV3s it pretty much locks them up and prevents them from doing any of the automated cleanings. My suggestion; Walk your sister through moving the carriage out...

Hope for the cable being the issue; there's also a good chance that this is the result of Main Board damage. If one of the Head Driving Transistors is shorted then a constant signal will be send to the Head, like you're describing. Check the quality and connection of the cables and if that...

I disagree that this is a mechanical/electronic issue as have seen a lot of this kind of effect with epson-headed printers, especially when printing that flesh/taupe/beige type color. I would say that this is an issue of insufficient dot-gain; basically the printed dots are not spreading out...

Another thought: If you're using aftermarket inks then you may want to treat that cyan ink as suspicious too. In my experience, cyan ink is the most difficult color for manufactures to produce and I've seen many occasions where cyan overspraying was resolved just by flushing out those lines and...

It's true that some proprietary parts will be discontinued however there are alternative sources for many generic parts (or proprietary designs that were ripped-off by Chinese printer manufacturers). Please check out the range of parts available on our webstore www.onpointinkjet.com There's...

Just to clarify; By "syringe" I mean a 50 or 60cc medical syringe, not one of those tiny 5cc jobs you use to give medicine to your Paris Hilton handbag dog.

A couple more things to check: Priming with Syringe: Try connecting a syringe to the tubes coming from the bottom of the maintenance station (there are two tubes so you may need to construct something with a "Y" that splits your syringe out to two lines. Try drawing ink with this. Using a...

Post a photo of the connector and it's little label tag and you'll have a better change of getting an identification

I have seen this many times before - It's likely that the media is not laying flat (i.e. buckling up slightly between the rollers) and thus the distance between the Head and the Media is not consistent. This causes the drops to land in these area slightly out of alignment, especially if you're...

Another thought is that the roll-holders may be out of square with the rest of the printer (especially if the unit was shipped to you). To check, load up a roll of material and then pull through a bit more than you need, then grab the roll and wind it back a half turn or so while keeping a...

The "Blinking LCD" phenomenon usually indicates that the printer's internal buffer ran out of data and it is pausing waiting for more data to fill the buffer. This usually means one of the following: 1. Firewire Cable is bad, damaged or way too long 2. Firewire Card in the Printer is bad or...

Oh, forgot to mention: Because this is a CJV you'll need to open all the Cartridge valves before pulling with the syringe - #TEST => CARTRIDGE TEST => CARTRIDGE VALVE. Use the arrow keys to change the "." To "o" on all channels.

To prime the heads manually (and to test the seal between Cap and Head) you'll want to use a large syringe (40ml or more) to suck on one of the lines that go to the Cap. Remove the metal cover in front of the Capping Station and then you will see the Pump and the two lines that go from it to...

Nice! Looks like a HotWheels!

Hey Chris, I've never pulled up the platen on a JV33 myself so I'm interested to know if there were little spacing shims underneath there? I once performed a similar operation on an old Mimaki UV rollfed printer and discovered that there were a million little pieces of shim stock - what a pain...

In Variable Drop printing heads fire several drops in rapid succession and these are supposed to combine in flight and all land in the same place. Yours look like they are breaking apart before landing: A few things to check: - check that you entered the Head ID - make sure that the Head...