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looks like lexan film, screen printed on the back, and stamped or vacuum formed for the tough logo, then a double sided adhesive laminated to the back. I know people that make gauge clusters for tractors by reverse printing on lexan film with a solvent printer, it works fairly well even though...

low ink i beleive

When you want to use the custom cut feature, you have to load the roll as TU or TU2 (one of them specifically, i forget which), instead of roll or edge. Everything else you are doing sounds right, as long as the take up unit is plugged into the printer.

Cutter protection strip can do this, so can a blade holder that isn't rotating nicely, and drags sideways when it changes direction. If it's mostly on the corners it leans more towards the blade holder. I've heard people getting them happy again by a drop of 3-in-1 on the blade holder bearing...

almost always it's between the thermistor, thermostat or the heater board, one or a combination of those 3 is the likely cause. I think there are some fuses on the heater board, they'd be worth a look any way. Another trick if your shop is quiet, fire up the printer in service mode, in heater...

it should be able to easily read up to about 1.5" (4 cm) less than the media width, and with some effort can get lower. As pat said, it's between the outside 2 pinch rollers, i think they have blue tabs on that printer. The printer doesn't read the sheet width, but the distance between those 2...

peck, no copeck, get parameters from the old board, put parameters on the new one. copeck doesn't have the get and put parameters buttons.

It's not required, but it does knock a few hours off settings and alignments. Peck is used to pull the parameters, and put them on to the replacement. If you are replacing the main board, are you able to communicate with the old one? you can't pull parameters off a dead board. Also of note...

how does the edge look? if it's supposed to have a square edge, is it square? Is it stuck on high head height, or the wrong profile? If you print on unidirectional, does it go away?

That error crops up if it's not heating fast enough. you should be able to get into the heater menu when you turn it on, and it will read the current heat values for the print and dryer. If the values read room temp, but the actual printer is toasty warm, the thermistor is shot. if it is not...

Same deal on the SP-540, just between the 2 fans.

If memory serves me, there should be a dip switch board near the power cable. It shows the baud rate, parity and interrupt, maybe the irq as well. The driver settings should be set to the dip values, or vise versa. The plotter can also be added as a device in windows, and at least for testing...

There may be some plastic clips or zip ties holding it in, but the tip is held in by a screw. This is as long as your looking at the thermistor, and not the thermostat, which looks like a speaker magnet with 2 wires attached to it.

yup, print and dryer thermistors. Since they are separately adjustable, they need independent thermistors. The fan is the vacuum, since it's exposed it's a good idea to look at the exhaust on the back to see if it's packed with crud, and clean out if needed.

ugh, these things are always fun trying to backdate. First of all, your windows 10 PC has a LPT port on it?! i haven't seen one attached to a new PC in a decade, so i'd assume it's either PCI or some type of USB conversion cable? Finding drivers that work happily vary pretty dramatically between...

If you are talking about the thermistor for the platen heaters, then yes, it is under the bed. Both the thermistor and thermostat are screwed to the underside of the platen, and attached to the heater control board, which is also under the platen. You can at least see them if you take off the...

looks like junk data, sometimes an effect like this is from iffy contacts on the head cables. Taking the head cables out, cleaning the contacts with iso and replacing them (carefully, with the power off, and printer unplugged) can fix it if that is the issue.

you mention sending the boards out for repair... where are they being sent? anytime i get something more than a popped fuse i replace the board, though the board at fault isn't always easy to find.

when using RVW colours, they should show up in the file format section of the job properties. If they are there, you have to select "convert spot colors" button on top of the window in the same section. If the colours chosen do not show up in the file format window, there is something wrong...

Most multi meters have a continuity check, it beeps when the contacts are connected, in this case, through a fuse. Swapping the head cables will work in theory, alignment might be an issue, with the printer thinking it's printing with a head that is more than an inch away from where it...