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Wouldn't surprise me if Avery does monitor the boards. They want to be the best. By monitor different boards they learn from what the end user likes. That's why they came us (end users) and asked what we wanted in a vinyl. After listen to people they went to work. After getting the print quality...

We got burned really bad by the old Avery. Jumped from manufacture to manufacture looking for something that worked. We used 3M for a long time. Really like the V2. When 3M came out with V3 is when it went down hill for us. To have a manufacture tell me what's best for me bugs me. Along with the...

Also. We supply with each invoice a sheet showing when the vinyl was printed. When it was laminated (to show outgassing) what printer it was printed on and even the type of ink. Along with an install date and a check box area that's it's been post heated. Every bit of info right there if there...

Stick with all Avery. Write down the batch numbers on both the lam and vinyl. It's located on the end of the box. Give your customer those numbers on his invoice. There's their warranty right there. 5 years if you use the 2.1 and 4 years if you use the 1.5. Check the product bulletin regarding...

Avery's new Supercast is awesome. Been using it since bets testing earlier this year. Have already tried their new 3D gloss laminate. Super glossy. Love it.

we use www.squeezysleeve.com. i agree heat should take out scratches.

Sorry folks...but the Bentley is SICK!!! I'd drive that around in a heart beat!

Just sent you an email

We just got to use on for the first time last week on a box truck. Now I can say I've used both the Rollepro and this tool. To each their own.....but I honestly like the the Rivet Sealer better. Yea. It's slower. But something about it I just like how tight the vinyl is around the rivet. Didn't...

I 100% agree with overlays. Do it all the time. And it's not cheating at all. Would rather have an overlay and perfectly lined up text that's in the location you intended, the something that that's way off. As for the nose. Do the bottom first. Trim it at the rub rail and bring the top piece...

Our shop did some beta testing a year or so ago with it. Nice stuff, but horrible to work with in the warmer temps. Stuff turns to goo really quick. So if it's slightly warm in your shop...like mid/high 70s be super careful with any straight lines or text you need to line up. I just pulled the...

wrap over them. .02¢

Looks wrapped to me. Look at the window up top. I've seen some of their (3 Amigos) other trucks around here in Fontana and they look like hell. Especially their full trailer wraps. This doesn't look so bad.

Sorry to hi-jack the thread with that last post. dig the HHR wrap. Good job. looks like a really clean install.

OK. Just checked out the site. The Chrome Maclaren is off the hook.

Very well said.

Also, another small tip, if you can. I try to take off the any silicon around the rub rail. Wrap up to it. Then re-silicon over the wrap. Not only does it look cleaner when done, it also protects that edge.

Perfect example of design on this boat. The front wants to come together at the rub rail as the boat moves inward toward the tip. So don't try and cross the rub rail with graphics up front. This cat here isn't as bad because the front of the boat isn't a tip. So keep that in mind. Nice wrap BTW.

I've never used anything but air-egress. The whole "water under the wrap" is a load of crap if you do it right. The only time I've used non-air-egress was an installation only job on a bass boat for the FLW. What a nightmare. The 38' Scarab we just did was done on Avery 1005 EZ (not the EZ RS)...

Give me a call. We've done a ton of boats and just finished wrapping a 38' Scarab last week for Avery. Including the top for a total of 700+sq ft. I'll answer any questions you have. 909-822-4400