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You can buy just the creasing tool from Mimaki, or get a Roland style one and use that.

As the title says, printheads are all unrecoverable and am in the process of tearing this guy down. Happy to ship parts as needed and can pull most things. I have a good portion of the control boards all removed and ready to go. Everything functioned, just the head issue, so tons of good parts...

If you're decently technical, I can run you through setting the date value on the ink chip. Doesn't require anything too crazy, just a USB to serial adapter, a 110 ohm resistor and some free software.

Correct, the LED circuit board tends to be aluminum or copper backed circuit board that's bonded to the heatsink with thermal paste.

The UV LED arrays are cooled by a heatsink on the UJF 3042MKII/6042MKII/UCJV300 (and the 7151, I think), it's the same module. Check mist filters, make sure the heatsinks are clean and air is moving over them. As soon as you start printing, those fans should be running, and they will keep...

Might be a messed up printhead cable or bad connection, but if not comfortable digging around in the head carriage, might be better to have the tech fix ya up.

The 3DUJ-2207 is just a modified UJF-3042 MKII EX, so using parameters, hacked firmware, modified build plate and adding a second UV unit for bi-directional printing, I am attempting to make a UJF-6042 MKII into a much bigger version of the 2207, totally NOT an official model. Since Mimaki...

Best bet is to snag a service manual and do the process step by step. Probably some manuals kicking around, especially with it being an older model.

Could just be a delaminated head, a really common problem, especially on older printers.

Selling off some surplus printers to make room other stuff. Already running 2x 6042MKIIs and they're enough maintenance on their own. I have a rough condition UJF-6042 MK1 that needs a new head and a thorough cleaning and a good deal of work. Might just be best as a parts printer, total project...

System pressure is under Menu> #Test> Air Pressure Check. Usually low or high pressure will immediately throw codes, but good thing to know how to check. Usually set when configuring machine, but useful moving a printer to a new altitude. Also, since the UCJV300 cap station has a dense mesh on...

Rails tend to accumulate dirt and debris, that combined with tiny ball bearings leads to noise. 3 in 1 isn't terrible, so should be fine. A light wipedown with a cloth with a few drops of lubricant on it works great if you start to notice buildup of crap.

*mispost, please ignore* (Where's that delete button?

Lots of good videos on greasing linear rails for 3D printers and such, but Mimaki tends to grease them right. Once that is done, best not to mess with them as over greasing can cause headaches as well. Can always try a stethoscope to see where the noise is coming from. As for the carriages...

We got some chips programmed with es3 and they worked. The printer also came with them in dual cmyk setup.

Solvent moves through head, but zero ink going down, new head time it seems.

Wow, so little use. Now I have to figure out why it is saying 'Can't Print/Cartridge" Using ink type ES3, maybe it isn't set. Re-coded the date byte from 14-16 on the old cartridges to a value of 24 (so, 2026 abouts) to reset the expiration date. No luck on that, but it gives less IC errors at...

Make sure to put in a new wiper absorber before the trip. Had my fair share of messed when people left full ones in the printer before moving. Not a bad idea to tuck in a stack of paper towels under the waste tank output as well to catch any drips that might get dislodged during handling.

Cap seems to flow, poured some cleaner down through the flushing station and flows good. Did some work on Mutohs years ago, same heads and everything. Might try a top/bottom soak by priming the dampers with cleaner as well as the cap. Even if the head is shot, the printer is in really great...

Misaligned screw caused the bed to move erratically, would be loose on part of the turn and bound up on the other part. Should be smooth movement from start to finish. If really out of whack, it will be completely seized up. Should be able to jog the ballscrew by hand, just careful not to get it...