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Well if you're going to be printing on non-flexible surfaces, 0% flexible ink is the way to go. Might not be a bad idea to install some Primer.

I am 100% sure. I've been over this a thousand times.

Not all jobs. Just a few. First thing I did was reinstall rasterlink and cjv. I've also updated my firmware. Could this be an issue with the profile I'm using? I haven't changed my print settings because all the color matching data is only relevant with the profile I have it set up on... right...

For sure. I've tried both options. The finecut plugin is supposed to not work with the latest versions of illustrator. But, I tried it anyway. I've also done as much manipulation as I can in illustrator, so as not to over stress Rasterlink. I've sent my files to mimaki and the techs there...

The crops at the bottom are correct. The top end is way off.

Google should help for the size. I ordered an r2d2 skin for my xbox. When it came in, I was able to deduce that it was a semi-perm adhesive (knock-out backer) & it was laminated with 3mil satin. Seriously though, they're too cheap to produce yourself. Might as well hit up ebay.

Anyone ever have issues with crop marks printing in the wrong location? I try to do a simple print and cut, and the crops are almost 6" too high. So when it goes to detect the reg, it either doesn't find them or stretches the cut and my piece comes out with the wrong dimensions/unfinished cuts...

Mimaki sells washing liquid for uv inks. Depending on what kind of ink you have you can use their solution. The alternative is 70% isopropyl alcohol.

Bummer. Rasterlink is mimaki's rip software

When you're in rasterlink, general>image edit>cut edit and one of the options is print/cut origin adjust. That'll be the calibration you want. Just make sure you have crops set up or the calibration you'll be doing is for cuttig without them.

I run a cjv150. When that happens to me I manually clean the capping station, the wiper, and do a hard cleaning. If that doesn't work you'll have to perform a nozzle wash.

Lighter fluid does the job exceptionally well. Just don't press to hard. More specifically, Ronsonol brand.

Are you saying you run the same job across different machines? I was just letting him know what I do to fix those errors. Well yeah but rasterlink lets me backup and store saved properties or "favorites" so I'd do the color replacement once and everytime I'd have to hit the same color again I...

Again... I don't have a spectrascope. Color monkey indeed. And yet which one of us is here with an issue? My reds/oranges always seem to come out near perfect with a few tweaks. Perhaps you should pull your file into illustrator and actually look at the image properties.

I found some of these the other day, hope it helps! popsuperstore.com

no spectra. I assign cmyk values to all of my prints. Perhaps the rip you're using is drastically different from mine. Lab always seems like too much guesswork for me. Was just curious, don't be so pushy.

We use a low-tac clear for some customers. It's orajet and the removable adhesive is great!

How come you aren't using cmyk values?

Again, I'd absolutely check under the head. And just a shot in the dark, but maybe you could try slowing the scan speed down or try uni-directional and see if you can get some quality back.

white ink What kind of ink are you using? I'm fairly certain the white has aluminum oxide in it and it has to be lightly shaken regularly. Have you performed extensive cleaning on the head? Could be that you're just having some deflection or something. Before you take the step and replace the...