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quickest fix for fine print issues, is to print in single-direction. agreed to above comments regarding getting your bi-directional alignment dialed-in, but posting a pic of your nozzletest might also confirm whether this could also be a printhead issue.

only pipes I've ever wrapped were overhead parking structure clearance bars, but my trick was just to accept that no one would ever see the top of it :p i still took precautions, and marked center of my graphic and pre-slit the material to ride that line and started at the bottom of the pipe as...

i know you can just buy that woodcarving from Paul White for $7600 Pretty certain that a 3D file of this doesn't exist, but a cutline should be easy to generate via photoshop/illustrator if you're just looking to cut a 2D shape for a print to apply-to.

one of the coolest things i've ever done to laminated lettering, is use doming epoxy on the finished face. holy cow does it make the metallics POP! wish I had a pic to showcase, but it was just me tinkering in the shop on a project for a friend.

yes and no. ideally I'd just let the basematerial be what it is to save time & cost to client, but with PVC you pretty much have to paint it or black will turn grey and white will turn brown with exposure to elements. interior, doesn't really matter, but ultimately acrylic is still muuuuch...

for me, in onyx, it was an issue with using a stroke rather than an object fill for the cutshape designator. was treating the stroke as two lines, and cutting them

we just buy ChemMetal laminate and laminate our own materials with contact cement. huge fan of acrylic as the base material, as the finish is much cleaner by comparison to PVC. I usually route my lettering face-down, which allows me to add stud holes to the backside, but also keeps my upcut...

we do this all the time. paint the letters white & apply reflective on the surface.

can you make some templates that cup the four corners of your sheet, that have registration marks on them? might be difficult if every sheet is a custom cut file, but if you're step&repeating the same cuts then it could be useful basically tricking your machine into scanning a "6x10 sheet" to...

I tend to hijack these kinda threads with the DIY mentaly buuut does it have to be 6ft? ....why not max out a 60" roll on a printer and just "make it work, with a series of posts slapped into the coastline in a curve to wrap it around with grommets & rope/bungee? ....or just source a grand...

i like the sleds for temp signs. just weigh em down with some sandbags, no digging required.

+1 metamark was only one I could find. edit: to say Hexis is awesome. was actually curious if there were some restrictions on PVC manufacturing, but it appears it was geared more towards aboloshing production of "single use plastics"

i asked Grok to draw me a picture of an S101 sign on a corrugated wall. (twitter/X.com's AI chatbot) takes a little coercion to ask for further details like Reverse Illumination/etc, but its fun to play with. p.s. now that's i've hijacked the thread, Taylor Swift wraps cars between football...

use the snap alignment feature: youtube vids avail for demonstrations.

most likely the tension on the laminate spool of your laminator. ever so slightly stretching the laminate before it lays-down onto your print and it wanting to shrink-back. ...especially when it comes to calendared laminates like the 215. If you don't mind mix&matching brands, Grimco's...

i like it. its no secret the wall is corrugated, so why not show it off with some killer deflections? *tip: map out the high spots, 4-6"spacing/etc., and utilize for your mounting pattern so you don't have to jump around between highs/lows or the cursewords that come with having to drill out...

i wouldn't bother with reflective, as it requires a light source coming from the line of vision to reflect. +1 to simply going with .063/.080.

3M 8624 will stretch&contour, but the arlon8000 is really just for flat stuff as it's fairly rigid by comparison. if its something permanent and the client wants their mortar lines contoured, then I upgrade to 8624, but if just spanning the mortar lines is acceptable then I'll use the 8000 but...

its just at the edges of the material, but a good point ...just use a piece of masking tape and dab at the rollers where this occurs after every roll/run. plucks up those goobers like a charm.

did you laminate with a conformable laminate like the recommended 8428? ooof, u said it won't stick? have you tried sticking anything else to the surface? ...sometimes people wax their vehicles and it makes it difficult to adhere. no experience with the 280 but it was my understanding that...