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If they want basic security vinyl, the Oracal 820 Safety Vinyl breaks into little pieces when you try to remove it once it's laid. Have used it, good stuff, runs around a grand for a std size (55" x 50yd) roll. You can laminate it if the application calls for it, but do some tests if you plan...

Good for you! OEM's are nice, when you can find them, basically because they're the right shape already, but usually you can't. Paying OEM and dealership markup prices is costly, ordering on line, you often don't get the right ones, or OEM. Unless it's a fairly late model or new, they've...

Does that model use a cable, or belt? Been a minute since I did anything Roland. On an SC unit I had years ago, I chased my tail for a while on an issue similar to that, started with the same scan motor code, went down the same rabbit hole. Was ready to toss it out in the parking lot & use it...

Personally, I don't like the black, that blue stands out so nice on the plain white by itself.

I grew up in a body shop, used tools as teething toys, even had my own shop for a while. Since the day vinyl striping first hit the scene, it's always been hit or miss to match. Even OEM stripes didn't match once a car was a couple years old, always a touch of fading to the original. Quite often...

You may get so many recommendations on different brands, your head will swim. Everyone has their favorites. You definitely want to laminate, unless it's a short term graphic. If the door has a factory finish, you should be ok, if it's been repainted do an adhesion test since a lot of paints...

Cool, would love seeing the finished results.

Good luck. Getting or matching factory stripes can be a real pain. The only OEM fascia stripes in that style still available from Mopar are the carbon fiber (they use a proprietary pattern, which is why they still offer it). The silver/ red is discontinued, and no longer available. Check with a...

Happy to hear it works for someone, I've never had good results, especially with pure orange. Always faded out in exterior applications.

There's not much you can do if the printer wasn't programmed to support it. If you do find a way, be aware that pure color inks like orange and red fade quick out in direct sunlight.

Could be just a bad wet install like Gino said. Or, take it a step further, if that black is an air release vinyl, and someone tried to install wet. Fluid works through the channels, pools where it ends up, gets crazy hot in the sun under the black, water turns to vapor, and makes big bubbles...

Laying dry with or without lam isn't that hard if you do it right, found a vid of how I do it to help visualize. Start it straight, work from top to bottom, pull the liner down as you go so you don't have all the adhesive exposed to grab where you don't want it to, before you want it to, makes...

Code 0106 can just be a limit initialize value lost, a fault in the tool carriage/ head carriage disconnect, or a backlash issue. If you heard a clunk when it happened, I'd focus on those components to see if something broke or skipped position. With this, also check the belt tension if the...

You should never apply laminated perf wet, and this is why. The fluid can't be pushed out, gets trapped in the holes, obstructs vision, causes premature failure, and there's no way to remove it. Once you laminate perf, it's dry install only.

Just keep in mind when you start using them, pure orange is more prone to fading outdoors in the direct sun than other colors.

They're easy. 6x6 cedar for the upright, whatever length, width you want for the cross bar, simple cross lap joint to connect them, bolt together, an L bracket on top so it's hidden for added support (if needed), and you have it. Make it fancy? Bend some mild steel or aluminum flat bar stock...

+1 for Foamcraft. That's who I use for signs like this. I'd go HDU, they have a ton of stock shapes to pick from, or do custom ones. Don't even have to paint them, they'll sent it finished and ready to hang. Poles, do them yourself, or just sub it out to a local woodworking shop. Other than...

Looks un-cured, clear looks pretty heavily layered too. Try something, do a test print with the same settings, then on your Mimaki you should be able to go into setup/ UV mode, and there should be a 'no print' option, it'll go over it with lamps only. See if that cures it, or at least better. If...

This. And yup, those work on square poles too. Just make sure the top and bottom ones are level with each other. I've used them on square, round, decorative, and octagon poles. They just have to hold well enough to not slide, just like a round pole. It's not like you're hanging a car off it (or...

Most of us are printers, not painters. There are quite a few on here who still do a lot of painting, but not many are on during the weekends. Yer' not wasting anyone's time. What you're doing is unique, special, and just won't be in everyone's wheelhouse. I started out with brushes and pounce...