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Or, you know, autopsy the motors to check for failure condition.

I know when I'm not wanted. =P

I prefer UV inks for durability, LUS170 is great for not needing laminating in my experience. Though, we run UV for everything, lower maintenance is nice too.

Setup lots of 330 series machines, never seen a UCJV330 in dual CMYK mode. However, a TS330 with that setup was wicked quick. Similar heads, just one was the aqueous version of the i3200 versus the UV version. The specs page from Mimaki covers the sqft/hr for each setup and is decently accurate.

Never tried, guess I should.

We have a Fletcher 3000, love it, but no ACM tool. Works great on acrylic and lucked out finding a huge stash of blades on eBay for $30. Lifetime supply. The SawTrax looks way more capable than the stuff Milwaukee has on offer.

Usually happens when the printer sits for a few days. Usually fine, but since ink and primer share a capping station (there's 2 sections, connected with a Y fitting). Heads naturally drip and it's a good thing, keeps clogging from being as much of an issue. Since the ink reacts with the primer...

This is a pretty typical scenario with me on the UJF MKIIs with primer, the primer nozzles are mostly fine, but it reacts with the clear ink and cements in place. The Gen5 heads on the JFX200/500 are more durable in some ways and have a single unified nozzle plate and are easier to clean. It's...

Sawtrax looks far more capable in my opinion.

Which fits your needs better? We're not going to be the ones using the thing. ;)

I tend to have a near overlap of a single nozzle row for best results, can try doing slightly more overlap to avoid gapping and leaning more towards heavier ink between passes. It's really fine tuning and a magnifier is key. Also, on some materials, you're just going to go with a higher pass count.

Get a sample and try applying it by hand to see how well it works. If you need some, I think I have 4-5 liters of that nasty stuff kicking around I can send you.

Yup

Wipe on primers will be a ton more aggressive than anything that you can put through a head. If you those don't work, Pr-200 is going to be hilariously terrible.

Need to do a lot of stuff to swap to primer, and yeah, it is bad about nuking heads. Might want to look into brush-on products or pre-treating acrylic. I tend to get good adhesion on LUS150 + acrylic by only removing the protector right before printing.

Rasterlink handles it fine and 7 is like $50/copy.

Well, here's hoping they kept the ink circulating the whole time to prevent it from clogging up. 40 or so liters of flush later...

Guy last logged in six years ago, maybe they figured the problem out already.

https://www.mimakiusa.com/ujv300dtf-75/ Looks like Mimaki is finally catching up with UVDTF printing with a rebranded UCJV300-75 with an extra take-up roll for the adhesive backer removal and laminating rollers. Seems the inks are modified LH100 for white/clear and LUS-170 for color, unsure if...

3M stuff is counterfeited like crazy on ebay and Amazon. Sometimes it's good, usually trash that fails instantly or in short time. Or worse, isn't temporary and can even stain things.