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Dude's all over the place reviving threads, I think I am sitting this one out.

Ai? First post, reads like a bad book report and they're using hashtags for some crazy reason.

Converted one over to use generic STS Lus170 compatible ink a while back, but I think I had to mess with head temp.

Yup, doesn't need service mode or anything and I think it's covered in the base user manual.

Wrong procedure, that's for scan, not feed. On the road, will look up next week.

It's a feed compensation setting not being correct. See how the cyan and the red (mostly magenta) are all banding at a regular interval? Heads are firing fine, just passes are slightly too long and you're getting a tiny gap between them. Also, we have a Mimaki section in the forum at...

Just need to reset the machine basically, what ink type are you moving to? If going to 150, flushing the machine and changing filters is reccomended.

Might just need a new motor, but make sure the carriage is free of obstructions.

I mean, if it's still a question, the guy must have either gotten or worse or improved in the year since this thread started.

When people tell me they adjusted head voltages on a Gen5, I know for a fact they need new heads and probably screwed up something else in the process. Usually, people have issues with air in the line or dropout issues, and they start messing with that stuff. While older heads with manual rank...

Odd, I use a similar workflow with different software. S120T with a Mimaki UCJV300. We just use VinylMaster to export a PDF to then toss into Rasterlink for printing. While not Flexi, similar concept, just need to check your output settings for the print.

Apparently there was patent drama on the Epson chip front with STS, they have nice inks for those heads, but DRM is the mofo it's designed to be.

Might be on wrong layer if exporting as PDF.

Ahh, just need to run calibration likely. Print and cut Mimakis love to drift when things are changed or over time.

Yup, the heavy lifting is easy to outsource, just gotta be careful asking the congregation for help when it comes to the actual design work...

Air rifles make for terrible paint brushes.

Image posted is hard to see since it's pretty low resolution. Make sure your blade depth, type and force are all set right? Also, make sure you're using Mimaki style blades, not Roland ones as they have different geometries (they have very similar blade holders).

Camel hair brushes are sometimes made of cat or squirrel hair, not from camel hair. Obscure AF reference.

Color shifting when switching ink vendors is totally a thing, can be a real pain. Though, I've had to do profiling for people when OEMs screw stuff up as well. Different pigment loads, particle sizes and all that fun stuff can make a pretty visible difference. Though, if working in a shop where...

I like how 'Robert Alan' is somehow 'Chris Fabian' on Telegram, not sus at all.