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19:55 shows 8 ink tubes, seems 2 are for the cleaning fluid system. But, yeah, 11:37 shows the top side of the head. So much for useful parts. Apparently, the heads are $600 without a subscription, that is even more than Xante.

My bad on the XP600, it's a DX5, which is like $1k compared to only $150 for an XP600. Might be worth grabbing some when Anker/Eufy abandons them for parts. After the disaster of a 3D printer they kickstarted, I guess they changed names. As for their circulator, using a magnetic stir bar is...

8 seconds in, yup, it's an XP600 head. Figured. Scratch that, 8 channel head @ 11:45 shows F186000, so an Epson DX5 unlocked.

I am lazy and use hand actuated valves on DTF stuff, since those clog super-fast. UV ink is probably the least likely to clog in my experience, with the exception of white inks.

Nah, new account, no post history at time of looking.

If you're getting ink starvation, I'd flush and refill the line and swap the damper.

Check your wiper, cap, pumps and dampers, all of which should be changed when doing a head.

Sounds like a delaminating head. The L800 heads are basically a head for a water-based ink, and they degrade with UV ink over time, seals swell and get soft and the nozzle plate glue starts to come undone. L800 and XP600 heads are great for the first six months and are way cheaper at $170 or so...

Thankfully solvent ink has a decent life, and everyone seems to set their printers back a year or two. ;)

Played with the FocusInc ones, great for paper labels. About $5500 for the printer, and if you use their ink, about $25/liter. The conveyor version is around $8k.

Chinese have cracked the HP pagewide DRM, so lots of promise if you want mediocre thermal printers with dye ink. That said, anything is better than Afinia and their crappy heads and $1000/liter water-based ink.W hat kind of system you trying to integrate into, budget per head, desired DPI, etc.?

Messed a but with the page wide stuff, but what is your idea of a page's size?

Seems there's someone trying to sell a cracked copy of the program trolling around in the forums. Heh, oh well.

Any time I see PR200 on a machine we're rebuilding, I treat it as if someone accidentally filled the channel with Pine-Sol or yogurt. Flush it the hell out and hope for the best. But, yeah, ink swaps are a massive pain. If adhesion promoters weren't so nasty chemically speaking, would love to...

If I do CMYK and gloss, I run it without pullback usually. Have to use 1200x1200 if I want a bit thicker on the gloss and 1200x600 if I want more for speed. Just printing stuff like stickers though, so usually not crazy detail stuff. Then again, with a native head resolution of 150DPI, i have...

I'd definitely try and go the LUS-150 route on styrene, 120 is trickier to get to stick to surfaces like that and LH100 is bad about cracking on anything that flexes. PR200 I find to be amazing at wrecking print heads and little else, but brush on adhesion promoters can be a great solution.

1/8 inch air brake tubing works in a pinch. Used in large trucks for braking systems. Or a scrap of 3mm works too. Can use a zip tie to act as a hose clamp if need. Recommend black tubing to keep light out.

Happy to help.

Line is flared out, need a new piece of tubing.

Best bet is RasterLink7 as it is getting many more profiles and you can use your key from 6 to get a free copy. Can still run 6 as well, on the same machine even as they don't conflict.