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Don't shut up. I appreciate the input lol. I had to come up with the idea and build these quickly, so this is what I came up with. Everything is rock solid other than the mitered portion of the hinge. I like your idea but not sure about where the two hinges mate. What's thin enough and strong...

I have a customer that puts these up and takes them down fairly often. They may need three put up or taken down in a given day, which, in the past, has meant handling and transporting six of the upside down ⅄ shape pieces. Those essentially take up 8' x 8' worth of space. Transport can be tricky...

Well, COULD have helped you.....Just flew in and out of Baltimore for an install and had time to kill. Could have knocked this out for you....

Domino's and a TON of other pizza places get their cheese from Leprino's. It's real cheese.

I wonder if that street L identifies as a coupler....

Boilerplate legalese meant to include both genders unless specifically indicated elsewhere....

There's no reason to premask it. For spacing, use a laser or pieces of Gorilla or other thick tape cut to the 1.45" gap size. Butt your piece up to the tape. Vinyl install can be time consuming but what you're showing is pretty straightforward. There's no magic wand....you just have to do...

You put up each piece and leave 1.45" between each one.

1/2" diamond core bit, 3/16" Toggler Snap Toggles anchors, silicone washers between the tile and standoffs and you'll be fine. That's not that much weight/pressure once it's spread out between the 6 standoffs.

Dallas. I've worked for and with some of the largest companies in the Country and it's commonly used.

Aluminum would definitely be preferable. You can use VHB tape and Lexel (Lowes) or Dap UltraClear (Home Depot) to attach the polycarbonate to the back of the aluminum as well as the aluminum 'islands' to the polycarbonate. These are typically referred to as route-out show-through (ROST) faces...

This isn't a result of anything you guys did. If something is going to happen to the vinyl like this, it's not going to take three years. It's going to happen pretty quickly. That being said, that's an insane amount of bubbles and apparently only on the darker portion (unless the letters are...

Pretty good chance I've worked with her....or at least the company she's with.

Just like eating an elephant....one bite at a time. Installing sign packages consisting of a few thousand signs is a fairly normal occurrence for me. I actually enjoy it as long as everyone involved has done their part of the job correctly. A bad GC, a Project Manager that is in over their...

What signbrad said. Industry standard is to assign a sign type / designation for each sign type. The designation will often refer to the sign type, floor, location (N, S, E, W) on the floor, etc.

I wouldn't sweat the specifics too much. The graphic basically just continues across each piece as if it were flat They never really read too smoothly. Installation is straightforward. I've installed quite a few and essentially all have been done with a single z-clip in the centers. You can...

All of the photos are bare concrete. They're not sealed, painted, etc. And my apologies, one clarification that I meant to include: Typical VHB tape (acrylic foam) does NOT work especially well on bare concrete. The tape that works best and was used in most of the examples I posted has the...

Exterior install. Bare concrete. Installed three years ago with about 100 others. Some inside, some outside, all exposed to the elements. Tape and silicone. Still up. Exterior install. Bare concrete. Installed in January 2017, so it's been up for 6 years. Tape and silicone. Still up...

The tape will easily hold it in place until the silicone sets up. Once the silicone cures, you'll need a prybar to get it off. I've installed a ton of stuff on exterior bare concrete with that method and have never had a failure.

Tape and silicone will be fine. No need for a mask or scoring the sign.