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Oh, that's from the last a couple of months ago. Dallas drivers suck.

Ouch, what happened to the bumper?

When does it need to be installed?

Hard to help when we don't have the full story. "Spray paint" and "reclaimed" would have been good things to include in your initial post. Pictures accompanying a complete description would be even better.

VHB tape and Lexel.

It's almost guaranteed to be Sherwin Williams ProMar 200. There are vinyls that will stick to it, but many won't. Also, the sheen has nothing to do with whether it's a high-durability paint. ProMar is available in flat and basically every other sheen.

There are companies that can measure the slab thickness with radar, etc. For the wall thickness, you can just drill a small hole in the steel. Large sign companies do this all the time.

This is exactly why I have side cameras. Lots of incidents occur on the sides, not just the front or back of a vehicle. A few weeks ago I was returning from Austin. The speed limit was 75mph. I was in the slow lane. The other lanes were all occupied. I see a car quickly catching up, easily...

Might want to grab a CPL filter if they make one for your camera. They help quite a bit with cutting down on reflection.

Dallas traffic is horrible. I have four cameras in the van - front, back and both sides. If I get rear ended or side-swiped (it's happened three times), I'll at least have footage.

Well, yeah, but the "12 cameras" was sarcastic. The guy has a camera at each entry point on the front of his house. There's nothing nefarious about that. It's smart.....with one exception. With even minimal ambient light, those cameras don't capture images well at all at night through glass.

Nah.... Springfield XD-M > Glock 10mm > 9mm

It can be done both ways. A rubbing of the letters is definitely preferred but a rubbing of the faces will suffice as well. I've done tons, both ways, and they've always turned out fine.

Even if you can track down the original manufacturer, personally, I'd at least still get a rubbing to send in. That way there are no errors in manufacturing. Grab a roll of paper wider than the tallest letter, tape it tightly across the faces and get a rubbing with a construction crayon.

No, that recommendation was just for Idaho. In Texas, you can only have a 2'x2' face, 16' skids are required, and you need to be a Master Sign Electrician.

4x8s are pretty standard. With 10' skids, the chances of it tipping over are slim. Drill holes in the ends and hammer in inward-angled rebar and it will be pretty bullet proof.

I obviously don't know what the regulations are up there.....but you may want to find out. In Texas, if you're not a licensed sign electrician, you're not even supposed to do something as simple as removing the faces if it exposes the electrical. It doesn't matter if you touch the electrical...

I agree but it wasn't my call. There were existing panels that they wanted replaced like-for-like. Same size, same location due to shadowing. I made suggestions and this is what they asked for.

My advice was for a 4x8, which is what the OP asked for. I did these years ago. They're flat and have never leaked.

That's why I suggested if screws are removed, to add compensating screws through the face. There are very few screws in a 4'x8' area on corrugated siding anyway, so there's not going to be any structural compromises. I also suggested using silicone where screws are used in order to prevent...