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Not sure what we're even disagreeing on, but ok. Not sure what cordless tools you have that have been disappointments because you won't say. Not sure where you got the torque specs from (nor do they tell the whole story of how well a tool performs anyway....) because DeWalt hasn't published...

What cordless tools do you have that are disappointments? I'm genuinely curious. For most corded tools, there is now a better, stronger, faster, lighter, more efficient, quieter, easier to transport (one or more may apply) cordless tool on the market. It's getting to the point that there's...

I've dug plenty in NY and PA.....no thanks lol. Too much rock.

Real world? Minimum? I'm not sure what you're getting at, sorry. This is completely different than core-drilling concrete and there's absolutely nothing soft about North Texas dirt. The dirt I went through is extremely hard and compact. If it looked easy in the video, it's because it did a good...

DCD460. There's a newer (slimmer) model but the specs are essentially the same.

This obviously won't work in every situation, but should do the trick for most installs around here when only needing to dig two or three holes. Anything over that and I'll use a tow-behind auger. In the video, I'm using a 6" auger with a 24" blade height. If needing a 10" or 12" diameter hole...

Not a new method, by any means. It works great as long as the Velcro adheres well to the install surface. Home Depot sells industrial grade Velcro with a pretty aggressive backing. Obviously, test it on your install surface before installing.

There are a few very thin VHB tapes that can be used. I'm blanking out on the product number but you can call 3M and tell them the two materials you're bonding and they can recommend what will work. Or someone here with a better memory than me can chime in. It's easiest to use a wide roll of...

VHB tape.

You're not tripping. I certainly wouldn't pay for that. Did they not give build specs prior to purchase?

Kind of a broad question... Do you have pictures of the wall in question? Are there access hatches?

I wish we had sand......everything around here is Houston Black....AKA Black Gumbo. It sucks to dig in. That being said, I would think in sand it would be worth bringing a couple of plywood strips to put in the holes that the posts could slide down against. I dunno....

Not silly at all....I have back issues as well. For me, bending over/digging the holes bothers me way more than lifting the faces. I'm usually feeling it the next day.

No lol, I don't take the old posts out. I run a screw into each post, just underneath/against the existing panel, leaving just enough out so it extends past the panel. Then I take the screws out of the existing panel and the screws I put in the posts hold the weight of the panel. Easy to take...

Not saying it's wrong, to each their own...but I'm curious why you attach them after you install the posts? I typically screw the faces to the posts while everything is laying on the ground. Super easy to square up and then you can just tip the whole assembled thing up and let your posts slide...

If you'd rather use studs than tape, just barely drill through the drywall. No need to drill 2"-3" past it. Once through, just push the drill through (with it off) to see if it hits anything. If it does (or if you hit a metal stud when drilling), circle those stud placements on the pattern...

Just curious, why not stud-mount them? It would eliminate any adhesion concerns....

He said drywall, so I would assume it's interior. Chances are, it will be a "scrubbable" paint.... Sherwin Williams Promar 200 is pretty much the go-to for any commercial building/remodel. I would wait for three days before taping anything to it.

I've emailed them numerous times over the past few years asking them to provide them as an option. They finally did (not necessarily because of me, obviously) but a lot of folks still just aren't aware they're an option.

Talking about tape-mounted dimensional letters, no....? These are using the small wood block with the brad nail: This is cutting the center out of the pattern, leaving the tops and bottoms of the letters: This was installed using stencil-cut patterns: