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I've put new thermistors in some heads, and the CE4N heads aren't bad to work on. To my knowledge, the thermistor deltas are hard coded, as there are no normal instances where thermistor type should change. More a Toshiba problem than a Mimaki one, as they make the heads. As for the MKII versus...

Had mixed results with the hot peel, but it's cheap enough that it's great to have on hand for more monolithic prints.

One of the first machines I trained on with Mimaki was the TXF series and I was sorely disappointed with the machine. It's just a JV150/300 with some new plastics on it and some different parameters. Heads are going to get nuked regardless of your DTF setup, the rubberized ink is always going to...

Working on school equipment is terrifying at times, but it's great for finding the weirdest problems and 'fixes' that you'd almost never find elsewhere. Then again, I did just put new dampers in a printer that had zipties and twist ties holding the tubing directly on the head ports. That was...

Been dealing with a lot of DTF as of late, so here's my breakdown. 1) Most printers are based on nearly identical parts, even US assembled ones from most brands. Support will be the major motivator for most people in choosing brands. 2) 13" and 17" are most common widths. Most people going...

We use aftermarket ink, so it's like $45/liter, white, clear or CMYK. Since we're mostly a Mimaki shop, all the printers tend to have 2+ channels dedicated to white, so we can get a good thick pass and color on one go, it tends to be about a 20-30% up-charge. Then again, I just price stuff off...

I think 3's and 5's are compatible, a 2 'might' work. However, note that before moving an EPL board from one model of printer to another, it needs to be flashed with a special generic firmware for compatibility before it can then be flashed to a model specific firmware.

I'd lean towards EPL board, it's basically the motherboard. It takes control input and operates the screen and can run solo as long as it has power.

Yes. if you have staggered heads to allow white to be printed on same pass, not much. If it requires its own pass, much more.

Hold Up/Down arrows when booting to see if it at least goes into Parameter mode. Might be a bad EPL board.

I would run some flush through the system, might just be gelled up ink screwing things up.

Might need to try and find a manual for the stepper driver, some require different modes to do jog tests.

Check the wiring from the controller to the servo. Might be a bad servo or a wire lug cameoose. Or potentially controller issues.

Circulation is automatic with white ink sets, service mode just unlocks all the extra # menus.

I just want to see a CJV150-30 in person. The thing must be adorably tiny.

White ink circulation only happens in the subtank, as these are not thru-flowing heads. Try doing a subtank discharge and refill on head 4 and see if it times out on the subtank refill. While the solenoid valve (no needles in bottle system) might actuate, it can get clogged bad over time. Keep...

Looks like pretty decent parts in the machine, copies of higher end gear, but still quite decent. Here's a video that shows how to do a jog/test on the servo. If the servo jogs fine, check the wiring to the driver.

Time to pull out the multimeter and get to troubleshooting.

Just fond a software emulator for most USB dongles that I use as of late.

This thread is well over a year old, if you need firmware updates, your best bet is a dealer. Mimaki doesn't publish their firmware publicly.