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I'm sure in the 8 years since the original post, they've figured out what to do. :rolleyes:

I've learned not to give away RIP and other semi-expensive software, because I will get private messages from zero-post accounts created 10 minutes before they decided to PM me out of the blue years after the relevant post.

Ebay? It's not free software. If you printer can run on 7, that's less than $50 for the current version.

Sounds like ink starvation, so yeah, first bet is dampers. Might be worth flushing the line as well.

Check your capping station, damper, do a head clean, nozzle wash. All the usual stuff. If the channel doesn't recover nozzles, consider replacing the head. Same as usual when you have nozzles missing.

Seen this kind of issue before. If at all possible, scale the art before putting it into RasterLink if you haven't already. Next thing is make sure you have a reliable zero point to set the acrylic against to make sure it is in the same spot each time you need to flip or swap material. Also...

I just use pre-stretched canvases from places like Michael's and tend to do between $20-60 depending on print size. Since we use a 4'x8' flatbed, it's crazy easy. Though, no idea what industry rates are.

He went to #Adjust and set the date/time in service mode if it was more than 2 months. I've been over the firmware in Ghidra and have found zero mechanism in the service modes for reprogramming dates/capacities on chips. It can be done with external devices, but the chip tends to get invalidated...

I just go to the layout page in RasterLink and scale it to whatever size needed before printing samples. We tend to avoid anything Adobe format-wise.

As of late, I've been repairing printers more than printing. Most prints are small repetitive prints, so we just did a quantity of 1-2 as a sample for approval. For large prints, we just scaled them way down and did 'postcard' samples.

It's just calibration that needs to be done, covered in service manual.

Thanks for contributing, and as stated before, welcome. =) There's 2 types of people that people like me get burned out on, those who come in and screech like a banshee and revive dead threads and start new ones in hopes we'll hand hold them through fixing a machine they have no business...

I use RasterLink 7, but it's just installed with the profile manager, then I go to quality and set it to the ICC profile with the Color Matching settings.

I thought PHILJOHNSON did that. Oh well, I am cheap and live next to Texas, so I mostly use Digiprint to get it next day. Clean Cut blades are also my go-to, even if they weren't cheaper. I use a tangential cutter, and the factory ones seem to be more failure prone and have a mediocre grind on...

Digging up 4 year old threads is a bit crazy. Your parameters are specific to your printer, so using parameters from another machine will just give you issues.

Oldest I have used was 6, and since they made RasterLink 7 under $50, we went exclusively to it. Though, it lacks support for older printers.

Probably a similar setup, though now with commodity printer parts like head drivers and such, things like this are WAY cheaper. The more printers we work on, the more realize that they're just turning into Lego builds. For the price of a single unit like that in 2018 from a well-known vendor...

Had someone ask us about this setup, and from the signs we saw in person, seemed pretty obvious how they were getting output. Corrugated plastic is cheap when buying in massive bulk, UV ink can be had as little as $40/liter. Signs were printed at 150 or 300 DPI, and probably on a large...

Just loaded it in in the Quality tab in RasterLink7.