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Will get an ink supply code that will stop printing if that is the case.

If things are clogged, will show up in nozzle check, worth checking of course. Since the printer uses subtanks, they are less prone to clogging/wearing out, but they can have other issues. Line issues mean you'd be getting errors on the printer as the subtanks have float level sensors in them.

What's your media compensation test look like and what head gap are you using?

People are welcome to just message me without reviving this thread. That said, I do not provide technical support for free to inactive members of the forum. I prefer to post things where they can be read and referenced in the future by whoever needs.

Gloss fuzzing is easier to spot than color fuzz in some cases. So worth checking out. I have about 20 compensation settings for all the materials I use. Most stuff can be passable with adjustment, but once gloss goes down, getting that accuracy can really pay off.

The JFX200 line is nice, the EX is only 3 Gen5 heads, but they are easy to keep running in my experience. Just make sure, whatever you're running, climate control is your friend. Support is everything if you're using a machine to pay the bills. I am in Oklahoma, so we're underserved on pretty...

Check your media compensation/head gap, feathering can be indicative of ink dusting as well as ghosting. Dumb diagram for illustration purposes.

Got lots of familiarity with Mimaki's lineup, but everything I run is in the realm of the used (we mod/fix stuff to fit our needs). But seen some really good results from some of the CET printers. The Gen5/6 printheads are great for flinging UV ink and tend to be really reliable.

I just see one image, so not sure what is what.

How large are your 'boards'? Have a budget in mind, what kind of RIP do you want to use? Just wanting to do CMYK, or want white/gloss. The LEJ's are decent, but insanely slow, so lots of upgrade potential from lots of models.

Are you doing 600x1200DPI and setting lamp mode to gloss? Can also stack gloss layers if you want to go fancy, but probably need to execute a pull-back. Things like environment can play a slight role as well, ambient temp, humidity, airflow, etc, but that's true with any printer. Some materials...

I'm a tech, heads are $2400 from digiprint. =P

We have a guy in house who designs custom circuit boards and have done some weird backlighting stuff. So, I just think that.

Check to see if you get subtank fillup or supply subtank messages. Yellow isn't a recirculating color, but air in line can cause some drainback. Could also be worth checking the pump box (tall box by power switch box) and see if you see signs of yellow ink leaking. Might be getting drainback.

If the printer has service mode enabled, go to #TEST>SENSOR and scroll through the subtank sensors, should be in same order as your bottle. Disconnect is usually ---/---/---, full is ---/HI/----, low is LO/---/--- and so on.

Contact HosonSoft and let them know your board version. They should be able to provide you with some of the useful information to hook it up.

Might be leaking subtank, do a pressure/vacuum test? If just a regular JFX200 (non EX), the subtanks can be pretty reliable. If you have #TEST enabled, go to SENSOR and scroll through the subtanks to see what they read. LO is low, HI is full, LIM is limit/overflow.

I remember when SAi was telling me about their amazing upcoming announcement. Turns out they still don't properly support 10 color printing; they got bought out and their subscription prices went way up. I am still not amazed.

When changing inks, it is best practice to FULLY flush the lines, dampers and cap in case there is chemical incompatibility. Some inks react and solidify or form solid precipitates that will clog stuff up pretty bad. If you do swap ink and don't want to flush the lines, make sure it's stated and...

This is an 8 year old post, good luck.