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I'd probably do them in groups of 5. 3 landscape down one side and 2 portrait alongside them and repeat.

Must have :rolleyes:

Black printed at various % without any CMY will always look brown, not grey.

Have you looked at your foil order. On one of the Avery prints the black is missing in between the white lettering. My guess is that you are laying two hits of white then black over the top. Correct? The white lays down thick, so the surface becomes uneven. The head can't put enough pressure...

Greys are very difficult, even when running light black ink your profiles have to be spot on to avoid unwanted coloured hues. I'd recommend printing a range of grey swatches for each media and profile so that you have a physical reference to compare to. Maybe there is a facility in your RIP to...

An S class with tangential blade cuts Substance no problems although have to set up an out-feed table to solve various issues. On a different note... In my experience print and cut machines can work really well for cutting thick MX materials. Even with their relatively low cutting pressure...

I'd go with an Epson SureColor S80600 and a Summa S160T (or F Series if you have the budget). For motocross you need a printer with orange, red and green ink to match the plastics of 3 main bike manufacturers. You just can't hit these colours with basic CMYK. A gerber Edge FX is a nice add on...

If someone else can offer an identical product for less, you have a problem. Having said that, there is always someone out there willing to work for less, but those guys usually aren't around for long. You have tons of experience that others can only dream of. You just need to figure out what...

I worked from home for a while and I would go out and visit clients. Most signage jobs required an on-site visit and you can get an idea of their requirements and possible future work. I didn't want clients at my home, potentially seeing my equipment, my setup and my security, and also the value...

That doesn't look too bad to me. The usual advice is to never touch the head, but I have managed to improve things by gently cleaning the head with a swab. Heres my technique. Take a foam swab and fully soak it in cleaning solution. Move the head to the manual cleaning position and place a tray...

In a perfect world.

brandsoftheworld.com

Bi directional alignment?

I also miss the Roland system library now we are using Onyx. It was so easy to produce and work with the swatch books. I'd recommend printing the supplied Pantone simulation chart and go from there. Onyx recognises Pantones as spot colours and should printe a wider range of colours than regular...

Like WildWest said, set up your workspace then save it. You need to make sure you drop your old swatches into the correct folder in windows/finder or they won't appear in the swatches menu dropdown. If that doesn't work you might have to create your swatches from scratch. I'm not 100% sure that...

Interesting! I tried this a while ago but the ink wouldn't stick to the backing paper. Which brand of vinyl do you use for this? Are you using Eco Sol inks?

You could check the box for 'return to origin after print' under cut controls in Versaworks. That way it should return slowly to the origin, then begin the cutting.

Hi, we are using Onyx RIPCenter and Summa Cutter Control. We print and cut from this every day with both CutContour and FlexCut on every job.

I'm working on a Summa S140T. I have a few sheets of decals to cut out. I thought it would be nice to flex cut them to mimic a die cut decal. The decals are tiled in Illustrator because they are all different colours. I changed CutContour to FlexCut. ALL cut lines are now set to FlexCut. There...

If you don't get the USB to work you could install a PCI card with a parallel port on it.