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Multishield. 4'x10' 3MM WHITE/ WHITE GALVANIZED STEEL PANEL

Signfoam's website has some installation tips. We have been using Signfoam since the first version, and have never had any problem hard mounting. We did some in the 80's that were 4'x16', hard mounted for a local health service no issues. We recently removed them to change out their logos and...

If fasteners through the face is acceptable, just through bolt with carriage bolts. If you want a hidden fastener look, then epoxy studs into the back of the sign to go through your frame. I've done this both ways. Really depends one what the face of the sign looks like.

I'm sorry. I have a cam tech router, that was eventually bought out by AXYZ. I thought maybe you had the black AMC box that under the router. I had my black box (2000 model) repaired once at a place called ERD industrial electronic repair. They repair boards for all sorts of stuff. When ever I...

Using Oynx 12, I think the profile was in Oynx.

Is it running Camplot? Check .ini file to make sure they match the same com ports. Maybe try changing to com1, 3 or 4. This is for the black box controller. I remember talking with Jesse on this board. Was a good guy.

I have blasted 2" double sided, but used a metal frame around the sign. I have also done as mentioned and laminated 2 1'' panels onto 1/8'' aluminium.

We use 223 here with no issues. Installs great, and removes clean. We use it for 1 year or less window jobs.

We don't cut it often, but the last time was the ultraboard with the metal face. I think I used a new 2 flute straight bit. Cut pretty clean. I cut it at the same feed rate I use on PVC.

I like to use fsc-88 from coastal. I prefer Signfoam brand hdu and it works fine on it. Back in the day I would also use Jay Cookes. Both of these are waterbased products. Signfoam has signprime I think its called. Its ok, but a little on the thin side.

Earlier this year there was a discussion on how others installed ACM or PVC cut out letters. I didn't have any photos of my process, only the finial results. I always just seem to get the job going and forget to photo some steps. Well here is a few I remembered to do last week. This job was...

May be Gatorfoam. Hard too tell.

I don't know about the (opti-koat 30#) , but I have aways used the kraft paper from Grimco. I did have to send one back for being smashed in the middle.

I think it's the paint as well. As mentioned above, I use the Zinsser method as my base for Aqualeaf.

Without knowing the model, it just sounds like maybe the front or rear set got changed. I think if you hit enter after you pull lever it will switch front or back. I could be wrong but I would just check that.

I second the reprint idea.

Thanks for the reply. I have some on the way to try out. I talked to Coastal today and they said mostly just try a few technics, but hopper gun sounded like the best way to go.

Thanks for the reply. But I'm looking for advice on TSF-45 only. It is a product for HDU to give it certain textures. I'm not talking about Drivit type products.

I have a project coming up and I am thinking of using TSF-45 for a stucco or knock down kind of finish. Any tips would be great. I was wondering if a hopper gun would be best or just mitt it on and sponge/ roll for desired effect. I am trying to get kind of that Peachtree look onto signfoam...

Could be one of those Marlin sign duplicator fonts.