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So I’m running onyx 18.5, a summa S2 160T and an oce/canon Colorado 1640. Apologies but I work in mm for all you guys that use inches! basically, on a 54” (1370mm) roll, I can only send cut files that are 1250 wide, after the Colorado puts its marks on, then the summa does its barcode and...

Summa of graphtec might be a little overkill for 30 cuts a month! Though if you did go that route you could add to your capabilities. as previously stated, make sure any cutter you buy is compatible with your rip

We have the sawgrass, great for loading little sheets for doing mugs etc but the ink is quite pricey. Pennies in the grand scheme of things though

Probably best showing a nozzle test too. Always your first check

Same here. I don’t know if we’re just lucky or not but engineer comes same day if I phone early enough, next day at the latest. I also take full advantage of all their machine specialists. Got all their mobile numbers lol

For multiple page PDF files I usually just make a contour cut Stroke in a pdf file then use acrobat to set that contour cut pdf as a watermark in the customers PDF. Voila. That’s only for circles etc though. Onyx has the ability to create a cut line for any job you import quickly and easily so...

if you’re doing anything painstakingly you’re probably not doing it the right way lol

What file extension are you using? I seen someone converting to EPS that had “convert all strokes to outlines” checked and that was their problem. I’d probably just suggest PDF anyway

You run this risk with third party inks. It’s almost impossible to “prove” it’s the inks. That or it’s a very long drawn out process. that being said, if you’re running enough ink through it, there’s generally a good chance you’ll save money in the long run. If you’re not using much ink...

they must send them all out dodgy, we had to get a main board replaced early on lol

we only just recently switched the majority of our production to our 1640, so now it’s running about 95% of our jobs instead of about 60% but should breeze past that pretty easily after April (ish) and no problems so far. on ink alone (compared to our old mimaki per year vs sqm used) we’ve...

With any third party inks, there’s always risks. Depends how much of a saving you think you’ll make vs the chance you’ll have to replace everything the ink has touched (costly). I’d probably go with the if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it method but it depends how much savings you stand to make...

What’s your main business focus? That’ll probably dictate a lot. I mentioned banners earlier but is the sp300i not only 30”? Can’t imagine you’ll need too much space for those machines. a lot of it will be what suits you. I.e leave space for rolls of media next to the machine you put the media in.

Lots of long tables. Nothing worse than hemming an 8m banner on a 3m table

It is loads of fun setting it at max speed and letting it crack on. We do a lot of temporary reflective signage at 1050mm by 750mm that we had to run very slow on the mimaki to get it on the heater long enough to dry. Took about 14 hours a roll. Now we run that stuff (just black lettering on...

I think the general rule of thumb for manufacturers is 30 days, they’re likely playing it safe though. You can go earlier but we like to wait the 30 days if we can. Usually throw up an inconspicuous test piece around day 25 to see how that goes.

Ask them about it? Tell them to either diagnose the issue or you switch inks. Worked for us, ended up with a whole new bulk system and 16l of inks on our mimaki. If you’re buying enough they usually find a fix for you pretty quickly. That or switch inks and see how you get on. if there’s no...

Does it need to be vinyl? If you look into a supplier that also does interior stuff etc then they should stock a printable wallpaper with metallic/shiny finishes. Ours does and it looks great! Not cheap though. naturally if this is cut lettering just ignore me. But I’ve found with jobs like...

We usually leave at least 2-3” at either end of the barcode. And at least 80mm between barcodes when doing them on a roll (in case anything goes wrong and we need to cut it off and use it as a sheet). at least it’s not just happening to me so good to know there may be a way to turn it off!

I’d guess it’s the heating element speeding up the expand - contract process. Strong enough to break rocks so I’m guessing window perf is an easy target. that or when we’re removing that stuff we tend to use heat so that’s probably helping