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Ground would probably be 3 - 4 plus 1 day lead time unfortunately. Mutoh doesn't ship same day anymore. Upgrading to a guaranteed 2 or 3 day probably wouldn't be too expensive.

I have the ID boards but the junction board would need to be drop shipped.

I've seen it happen before. The chip readers will be the cheaper part to change but it's very possible you change them and it ends up being the junction board which is about $400 if I remember off the top.

If the cartridges are black, they won't work in your machine. Your 3rd party ones should still work though. If they don't then you're heater junction board it probably fried. It sounds unrelated but it's the board that decodes the ink cards.

We were struggling to get parts for a long time but it's much more stable now. Hopefully that's a good sign.

If you just started using the new inks from Mutoh, that's the issue. They're basically trying to kill the old models so the new inks won't read in that machine. We've got a 3rd party option if you're interested. Bordeaux

Who did you send it to? I'm always looking for board repair guys.

Just keep in mind that depending on how old the machines are, the main boards might only work in 1204s and not other ValueJets.

I'm sure you could probably figure out how to rig it but even machines that are built to print solvent white struggle to make it work.

I've never worked on that machine but I have worked on tons of Mimakis and they all have similar designs. I would run an encoder test in the service mode to see if it is working properly. The encoder and the motor are deeply reliant on each other so if one fails, it can affect the other. The...

Power the machine on while holding the Up, Right, and Down buttons at the same time. The machine will boot in service mode. Once it boots, scroll down through the menu until you find, "Check 8: Parameter" and hit enter. Then scroll down to, "Parameter2 : Update' and hit enter. Then scroll down...

I heard from him back at the end of August and he was still fixing machine then. Haven't seen him on here in a while though.

We haven't seen any ink issues here in America. That might be a regional thing specific to you. I agree with the plastic bottle holder feeling breakable. I haven't had one go on a customer's machine yet but they also haven't been out super long. It's the same holder they use on the JFX200 and...

The ink pooling is normal and the fact that it pools and then get sucked down mean the pump is working. There is a slight possibility that it's working but not pulling hard enough but that if very rare. The pump is peristaltic so it can be in a "closed" state which keeps the ink in the cap but...

Whenever a single color drops out on a print head it's almost always an ink flow issue but could be electrical in very rare cases. Most of the time it's a failing/old damper especially if the color starts out fine and drops out during the print. Another common reason is the cartridge is empty...

Getting the Pantone match would be the hard part. Since it would be printing as a spot color, you will only be able to control the density. You would have to print on top of the orange to adjust it's color and that could be a nightmare trial and error situation. It might just be more efficient...

Theoretically I think it's possible. They treat the white and silver as a spot color so simply putting orange in there instead of white shouldn't be any different. As long as the ink is compatible with the machine, I'd give it a shot. You would need to completely flush the white line and change...

The laser adjustment is . . . not a fun job.

That's a pretty rough nozzle check. A agree with balstestrat. When I change cap tops I usually flush some cleaning solution through the pump tubes to make sure they aren't fully or partially clogged as well.

The first thing that popped into my mind was wall paper but not sure if that works for your application.