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The 8 color setup is going to be slower than the advertised top speed for that machine. The fastest setup would be 4 color.

Usually that's a popped fuse on the main board. It's a very small fuse located in the corner of the board next to the black heat sink that sticks up off the board. It should be labeled F2 or F3 (I can't remember off the top of my head!) You want to figure out what popped it in the first place...

I've got a part number and price for the power supply but I can't guarantee it's something Mutoh stocks in America. DF-44506 - $132 Shoot me an email if you're interested in ordering it.

Good sources above. Also, check your profile settings for the scan motor setting. It can be normal and fast. You might be running on normal.

Did the white sponge in the new cap top become saturated with ink and turn mostly black after installing it and running a cleaning or is it still either all or mostly white? Have you tried a head soak yet?

Thanks! I sent OP a link in a DM he contacted me in as well.

$21 to use autocad for a day seems a little steep.

I can't think of a setting that would prevent the head from firing on a nozzle check. You could always switch the heads but there is no guaranteeing that it won't damage the good head! It's better if you can get your hands on a used head that you know works but just is missing nozzles. That way...

There is a common issue with e SP series where it gives pinch roller errors, and/or reads 0.0". Usually it's a bad tool carriage cable. We have them available here if you need one!

It's either an ink flow issue or a popped fuse. If you can see ink flowing under the maintenance station during a cleaning and it still doesn't fire, the head fuse is most likely popped. It's on the main board for the 1304 and 1324 but there is also a second fuse onthe CR board for the 1324 you...

That error just means the head circuit shorted. Since it shorted, it most likely popped the head fuse on the main board. Did you compare the old head cables with the new ones? Maybe they don't have the right amount of pins?

Test prints use the largest dots which are the easiest to fire for the head. When you print a file it uses multiple sizes of dot which is where you will start to see problems if there are any. Hopefully it's just a damaged or dirty cable!

If it were me I would turn the printer off, unplug it, hit the power button, wait 15 minutes, disconnect the head and trailing cables, air dust the terminals, and then re-install the cables. If that doesn't do the trick, it's probably a bad head or board.

Looks like it could be an electrical or static issue. Does it print like that on everything like nozzle checks?

If you can't find it, you can get a USB cd drive for like $20 on Amazon.

Maybe you're getting an IP conflict? I know Mutoh likes to use 192.168.1.253 as a default for there machines. Maybe they are both trying to use that IP?

Every time that little trick hasn't worked for me, the only thing that would fix it for me is re-installing the original factory parameters. You have to ask Mimaki for the file.

Unfortunately Mutoh decided to make things more difficult on the 1624. You can't do one at a time because there's a cover that goes on and blocks you from popping the new dampers in if they already have ink line connected. In the case of the 1624 I usually make a little plug to put on the ink...

It means the connection between the IO board and the slider board is broken. Check all of your cables to make sure they are still plugged in all the way. Specifically connection CN27 on the IO board and CN3 on the slider board. Anything that would cause it to not connect like a damaged cable...

I haven't used Rasterlink 5 in years but what you're looking for is called, "Favorites" It takes the current settings of the job you're on and creates a hot folder with it's settings.