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Our installers are fine with either. They have more of a preference with vinyls than inks.
Realistically, a really rich dark blue should wait til the next day as long as long as you have the time. It seems that blue is the worst color; worse than black.
Loosening the vinyl on the roll to...
The one that we have that REALLY prints wraps fast in great quality is the 60600; dual-cmyk. Nice solid vibrant colors like our Mimakis used to print.
We can print a full roll in around 2 hours.
We also have the 70675, but this other printer blows it away. We purchased the 70675 thinking we'd...
I'm not looking to argue or accuse anyone, I'm just trying to get some info if you all really want others opinions or help with this situation.
Can you at least tell me the materials used or the vehicle type that it is going on?
Are all the failing materials from the same lot # or are different...
To me it looks like you have some vector images on top of super low res JPEG images with artifacts around them. If this is not correct, possibly there is a rasterization/resolution level setting that is incorrect. Sorry, I am not that familiar with your RIP setup.
I'm still not seeing any "exact info" or photos of the failed areas on this project, or even what type of vehicles or locations that it is failing to help you out...
Exactly what material and laminate combo was this printed on? It could be that they are using an incorrect vinyl or laminate if...
3M co-brands the MCS compatible inks (which actually ARE a different formulation of the pigment/ink than the standard inkset is), but the whole MCS/warranty compatibility program involves the whole production/documentation process start to finish. Without proper systems(like following MCS...
Pictures, pictures, pictures people! How are we to guess what's up without being able to see the failure and having somewhat vague references to materials/inks?
And, yes, 3M Primer 94 or relief cuts are required/recommended for certain channels/recesses.
I am not fully understanding what is failing or causing the failure you're seeing. Personally, we haven't seen any failures from any 3M products or 3M inks due to manufacturing errors any time that I can recall.
What ink, printer, and what material are being used? You might be able to find out...
I sure wouldn't. Heck, I'd never use 210 for anything after the horror stories I've seen from it. Boats need proper cast vinyls & lams and edge sealer.
We print them, that is the secret. For registration when using translucents you can lay knifeless tape down first where the lap is going to be and then install both panels and pull the tape and end up with a perfect butt-seam.
Remove the vinyl and stick it to some scrap backing paper for now. Get some 3M Primer 94 and brush it on there, let it dry. Now, reinstall your graphic carefully and post-heat it for extra grip. Use some 3M edge sealer also if the edges still aren't happy.
Or, get a (sample) roll of Arlon...
I'd bet that the vinyl you're using actually does come in a sprocket-fed variety. We are primarily a 3M shop also and run quite a lot in sprocket fed variety, sometimes you have to buy it pre-converted to sprocket-fed as a "Gerber" vinyl, but the 180mc versions are also available in sprocket-fed...
I have a friend who has a JV3 and absolutely hates his RIP (Rasterlink) and wants to upgrade to a different RIP without breaking the bank. Does anyone know a solution for him? I know Onyx (expensive) will do it, but is there anything else out there that will or a subscription-based software that...
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