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Have you tried playing with the vacuum settings? I had this issue with Briteline Window Perf. It was a PITA. Luckily we only printed one or two window perfs a month. There wasn't really a true fix for it just had to mess with it until it decided to play nice.

HP user here. It almost looks more like something is contaminating you substrate than it does over spray. Also if you are running 18 pass and have your heat settings turned all the way up there is no reason you should be getting uncured prints. You might check to make sure the altitude setting...

Honestly its probably just the manufacturer doing some CYA so if anything did go wrong they would have something to blame it on. But there is no reason a USB2 device shouldn't work on a USB3 port. Have you tried possibly asking the manufacturer what issues they had?

Odd how it seems to be coming off the ends of your letters. What file type are you printing from? Maybe save one as a different file type and see if it still does the same thing.

My experience with it wasn't printing but making bling transfers. We would adhere the patterns for the transfers to a piece of acrylic and when static would build up it would cause the jewels to flip over the wrong way. Within a few minutes of turning the ionizer on the problem would go away.

Thats what I was hoping for but I've gone through all the option screens in Rasterlink and can't find anything that would suggest that option.

If you need the extra hands I don't see why not. But since they're basically looking for what I would constitute as an apprenticeship position I'd probably low ball their pay. At least until they master some of the processes you're teaching them.

That sounds like more of a PITA than Im willing to take on. We haven't ran this machine since I started here a couple months ago because the yellow damper had been out for a while. We were slow this last week so thought I would get it back up and running. After changing the damper had to finally...

Right now my CJV30 is printing CMYKlclm but I thought I saw somewhere you can change it to print CMYK only. Is this right? If so, is this done in the RIP or on the printer? Thanks!

Personally I'd charge double for the labor. When I was younger I didn't mind working 80+ hours a week because that's what was needed to pay the bills. But now I can work 40 hours a week and make just as much. And with 5 kids and 1 on the way weekends are precious family time that I don't feel...

I agree but I see it being more and more common for parents to not expect their kids to have any responsibilities around the house. My kids complain all the time about how none of their friends have chores and I remind them that they don't live with their friends.

I think too it depends on the area you live in. For example I know in the North East it's not uncommon for multiple generations to continue to live together because the cost of living is so high. A coworker of mine had a brother that lived in Philly and even with spliting the rent 4 ways between...

I set it on the output. But like I said the difference was barely notable. You would have to be looking for it. Definitely wouldn't be able to notice in just passing.

You could always laminate the back with something that will block out the light. If thats really the look he wants maybe he wont mind paying extra for it.

Ive only ever used the 8600 series but from what I can tell the 8600 has a force of up to 600g the 6000 only has a force of 450g. The 8600 cuts faster and can handle thicker and more heavy duty materials and itself is made a little more heavy duty than the 6000. Also the 8600 has a larger size...

You got me questioning this, so I decided to do some test prints when I got back into the shop today. While 100C 100Y 100M 100K was slightly darker than 100K; I don't think its noticeable enough to be worth printing it that way. But Im not sure why you are getting milky prints as I did not have...

Actually you can achieve much deeper blacks building them with cmyk than with k alone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No it still uses the same amount of ink just prints smaller bands so it takes more passes under the print head which means a longer time under the heater too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A Graphtec should work fine for low volume, but after using both I'd prefer a Suma just for the better cutting accuracy alone. Especially on long runs.

Our take up roller at my last shop was just a round smooth roller that was too big to fit a tube on. Otherwise I would have done this.