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I've had people wat me to only bend them returns and then they make everything else. I won't do that anymore. The more parts of the sign I build the better I can control the quality.

We have built 3 sets of these in the past 6 months. They take some sweet time to machine out of acrylic on the router, and fishing the wires up the wall is a pain in the arse. Still a bit spotty for my liking.

New to the sign industry and would like to know what makes one LED module or strip better than another? I've tried principal g2gs, GE, Hanley, 12v, 24v. They all seemed to work with similar results. None of my signs have been in for more than a year so I can't speak about longevity. We made a...

I also have a boss laser. I use air assist for engraving but at a much lower pressure somewhere between 7-15 psi. For cutting I use 60 to 90 psi. I have a pressure regulator on my air supply. You need some airflow to keep the smoke from entering the nozzle.

It punches 1/4 inch or 1/8 holes. Yes I buy coils of perforated for large projects, but for small ones it makes more sense to punch them on the machine.

I'm not sure what model SDS you have, but ours can punch a pattern for perforated returns. You can draw your desired hole pattern then it does the rest.

We have an SDS bender. It was expensive, but it's fast, and accurate. It even punches all the rivet and drain holes. I don't think a person can come close to matching it's speed especially on complex letters and shapes.

I cut thin vinyl applied to acrylic on my 4x8 Boss CO2 laser for channel letters faces. It is well ventilated with 4 exhaust fans.

Get a fiber laser if you can. We use a 3kw Laguna fiber laser for aluminum, and a 250w CO2 laser for acrylic. The only time I fire up the router is for ACM, polycarbonate, and 3D work. All my channel letters are made with aluminum backs, so I only fire up the router about once a week. The fiber...

If you take it down you might be able to hammer it out the smooth with bondo similar to car bodywork, but it would probably cost more in labor than just replacing the panel.

Personally I would go with an aluminum face. You can get aluminum off the roll just like polycarbonate, also my fab guy would just use two sheets, make two 3 sided pans, then weld the seam and grind it to where you'll never see it. I would do push through for the acrylic letters. You can then...