Large indoor polycarbonate installation advice needed

[nolanola]

Hello forum.
We are going to produce and install a large polycarbonate panel. I'm looking for a advice on two questions:
1. Our client has requested that we match the panel's color with that of a brown wall, which has been coated with latex paint. To avoid the complexities of calibrating our printer to match this specific shade of brown, I'm considering applying the same paint directly to the panel. However, polycarbonate panels are notoriously tricky for latex paint adherence. Could wrapping the panel in an adhesive wallcovering material and then applying the paint with a roller be a viable solution? If so, what material would be most suitable for this approach?
2. Regarding the installation, I'm contemplating a method to secure the panel by affixing a 2"x2" square tube to its back and then attaching a slightly larger U-channel to allow the tube to slide in, which could then be fastened with screws. I suspect there might already be established solutions similar to this. Do you have any recommendations or proven methods for this kind of setup?

Thank you.

 

[MikePro]

not a fan of relying on adhesives for overhead panels. one kid whacks it and it comes down with a mighty chop
i'd be framing it in some sort of cabinet, with a frame for the polycarb, that's bolted into a supporting structure. if you're uncertain about painting the polycarb, try painting a sheet of vinyl and applying that.

...why white acrylic? what about a brown frame, with silver polycarb & black lettering in a style similar to the doorway on the otherside of the hall?

 

[visual800]

I would frame out the insides of the doorway with 1x1 square aluminum where sign would be and use possibly .063 painted aluminum panel attached to those 1x1 frames and the drywall divider between openings
as poster stated above might be cool to come back and do some .5" border framing around signage to hide all hardware painted to match...that could be siliconed on

 

[Billct2]

Why polycarbonate if it has to match the paint? Make a pan using .063 or ACM and paint to match. Mount letters with thru bolt studs. Mount clips to wall with proper fasteners and then screw or pop rivet face on the edge

 

[nolanola]

Why polycarbonate if it has to match the paint? Make a pan using .063 or ACM and paint to match. Mount letters with thru bolt studs. Mount clips to wall with proper fasteners and then screw or pop rivet face on the edge

Polycarbonate, because it comes in rolls and we can make it seamless.

 

[nolanola]

not a fan of relying on adhesives for overhead panels. one kid whacks it and it comes down with a mighty chop
i'd be framing it in some sort of cabinet, with a frame for the polycarb, that's bolted into a supporting structure. if you're uncertain about painting the polycarb, try painting a sheet of vinyl and applying that.

...why white acrylic? what about a brown frame, with silver polycarb & black lettering in a style similar to the doorway on the otherside of the hall?

Thank you for your message.
The white acrylic is part of the design that's been provided by the client.
We had good results using VHS tape and aluminum.
I will try painting vinyl. Thank you!

 

[JBurton]

Instead of U channel, just build a larger frame out of angle, countersink screws around the perimeter.
Do you have a route through the building that you'll be able to carry at 3'x20' panel to the location?
If not, look into a SEG frame, you can assemble it on site and add the banner after the fact, all seamless in appearance.

 

[nolanola]

Instead of U channel, just build a larger frame out of angle, countersink screws around the perimeter.
Do you have a route through the building that you'll be able to carry at 3'x20' panel to the location?
If not, look into a SEG frame, you can assemble it on site and add the banner after the fact, all seamless in appearance.

Thank you!
Yes, there's access to the site to carry the panel.
I'm looking for a solution where I can "rest" the panel on something before securing it with screws. That's why I like the uchannel solution.
I would use the seg frame but 1/2" acrylic letters won't stick to the fabric.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

The polycarbonate is flexible and aluminum more rigid. I wouldn't trust adhesive to bond the two. You could make an aluminum pan and run vinyl over the seam and it looks seamless. Brace the seam on the back with angle or square tube.

 

[Gino]

Before you get carried away with the face..... how are you gonna finish off the back ?? Are you gonna hide it or is some message gonna go on it when leaving the Empire Room' ?? Ya don't wanna see all your hardware on something like this. Building a slim frame and mounting it with physical fasteners will be your best appraoch. No seams.

Also, are those doorways like 10' tall ??

 

[CanuckSigns]

I rule of thumb I always follow, if a sign is large & heavy enough to hurt/kill someone if it were to fall down, never rely on tape or adhesives only! I made this mistake myself about 15 years ago, luckily for me it fell down at 2 am and no one was injured, but it could have killed a kid if the stars aligned differently.

 

[nolanola]

Before you get carried away with the face..... how are you gonna finish off the back ?? Are you gonna hide it or is some message gonna go on it when leaving the Empire Room' ?? Ya don't wanna see all your hardware on something like this. Building a slim frame and mounting it with physical fasteners will be your best appraoch. No seams.

Also, are those doorways like 10' tall ??

Thank you!
You are right about the exposed hardware on the back. Now I'm thinking about making a frame out of J channel and using a french cleat on the column secured with carriage bolts to the panel.
The doorways are 13' tall.

The panel will be ~50 lbs. I will add 1/2" end caps on the sides to compensate the difference between columns and the top side.
No hardware exposed.

 

[Ryze Signs]

Personally I would go with an aluminum face. You can get aluminum off the roll just like polycarbonate, also my fab guy would just use two sheets, make two 3 sided pans, then weld the seam and grind it to where you'll never see it. I would do push through for the acrylic letters. You can then mount a piece of aluminum angle to the wall and screw through the top flange to secure the sign. If you need the back to be pretty you could nest another pan on the back.

Latex paint sticks great to aluminum if you sand it and apply an etching primer first.

 

[Jean Shimp]

Regarding painting polycarbonate/acrylic with latex paint, we roll the back side of the acrylic with acrylic latex paint. From the front it looks perfect. The trick is to put at least 2 or 3 coats of paint on the back side to make sure there is an even cover, then when dried cover the entire surface with vinyl to protect the paint from scratching during transport. On a very large sign the only concern is that the vinyl backer must go down correctly on the first try. You cannot lift it if there is a wrinkle or it most likely will pull the paint off when you do that.

 

[JBurton]

how are you gonna finish off the back ?

Good point. This is where I like to double dip and try to sell them an opposing face, when in reality, it's going to take roughly the same amount of work to finish the back as the face.