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We usually design in Corel and/or Photoshop and bring it into Versaworks as a PDF. We're running a Roland XP-540 Soljet III.
However, I have recently added the new Vinylmaster XPT to my office station and the print station. I have been learning VinylMaster XPT from a design standpoint and am...
Ditto on that. I try to hold a balance. I adapt to the job. However, I find myself putting a lot of thought and time into some of the simplest stuff. If the job isn't paying much, then they don't get a whole lot of my time. Period.
We do a lot of wholesale printing for other shops in the area...
That job is a $650 dollar hydro-dip.
I am going to get a hold of Substance and see if they will send me some samples. How well does it conform compared to 180C? Also...do you still have to prime the inside corners like you to the 180C? Once we put the 180C down on those primed areas, we are...
I see what you mean. The sharper corners don't hold for squat without the primer. The primer is a must. This is the rear. One piece or wrap.
The bottoms and any yellow you see will be done in Krylon Fusion black by the customer.
Next time...I'll be hydro-dipping these kind. Not worth my time...
Hahaha.
There are so many apps for different things these days....you never know. I just figured maybe it could have been an iPhone app. I just dumped my iPhobe 5S for an Android (very happy to be back).
But yeah...I should have known by the name...lol.
Yeah. I know. No biggie. That's what I will do. Thanks guys.
Just figured it wouldn't hurt to ask as you never know if somebody here may have wrapped one recently. It'll be a breeze. :peace!:
I gotta do a jeep and don't have one at the shop yet. I'm using some 60" Arlon...matte white. I'd just like to have it here before the jeep gets here. If nobody knows off the top of their head, I'll just stop by the Jeep Dealer and take some pictures and measurements. Not a big deal. It would...
We sometimes prime the sharper inside contours and such. Will try it on the edges too though.
When you get the right heat...adhesion is usually spot on and won't pop back out on vehicles.
I don't want to buy a roll of matte cast laminate. I only need about 15 feet off a 48" roll tops...
It's not a deal breaker at all. I am just exploring other options for like sized files. If there are better deals out there, I would like to hear about them. Otherwise...I will pay their price...but not just for one, but for the 6 at 50% off Pick Six deal or throw in the extra 100 and get the...
I have looked at the Aurora digital files and they are beautiful. Just the right sizes and all. However, I am looking for a less expensive alternative to buy some large ones like that.
I just don't want to tile. Any help would be great.
Did you sub out the priming or spray it yourself? You would need to use a flex agent unless you maybe used Krylon Fusion.
For matter, why not use a Krylon Fusion gloss with the Avery DOL 1380 matte laminate over some 3M 180C?
We regularly use 180C for some of our wraps on painted vehicles without a problem. We'll be printing the camo with our XC-540. We need to put camo on some ATV plastic and I was wondering if anybody here ever used 180C on a low energy plastic like that. I know it will stick...but for how long...
My bad lol. You were right. I was so used to doing it in CutStudio that I forgot that converting the outline to an object did that. When I leave the contour white with the hairline on it, it stays a single hairline.
Thank you Jill! :U Rock:
I have been having a problem with my hairlines being to thick I guess. On a contour cut it is making 2 cuts as if the hairline is not thick enough. I need to fix this ASAP. I cut with multiple cutters and rips with the most common one being Versaworks on our Soljet 3.
Nothing to do with...
Thanks a lot. Any suggestions for a good non skid laminate that has some decent UV protection? We're not talking Florida or Texas sun here...just North Carolina.
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