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Here's what I talked 'bout...

I use 290GF and 297 (thicker, less squeegee strokes) for a while but it doesn't last very long. I made 2 delivery cars for a local pharmacy like max 2 years ago (maybe less) and backglass is completely ruined. Many holes (cells) are perforated so dirt is trapped everywhere + the whole film has...

I like VectoRaster to create vector dot pattern gradients. It helps a lot when your printing a fade and it creates a 3rd color in the middle (ex: black to red with weird brownish color in transition zone). Mac only unfortunately. 'Have to turn on my old G4 to use it and export it back in...

3M's paper trasfer tape are premiums, heavy-weight. I use the 44x on most on the stuff I print n' cut (big rig graphics kit 10ft - 14ft long). If you want a transfer tape that holds better on air-release liners, my best one here is a clear one from TransfeRite. 'Don't know why but this one...

I walked thru this. 'Been forced to replace my printhead (VS-540). Still experiencing weird things here n' there but it improved the grays a li'l. On my side, even with the new head I'm still getting lighter strips random in my big solid color spots. Random is the key here. Sometimes I can...

All good examples. All between a big company vs. other big names. Seen on the net, not something I've done.

I use Hexis HX5DEPM 48" with air-release liner. Works fine for me. Prints well too.

I'm with you 100% Most companies don't even have replacement decals (good example: RV / 5th wheel makers) so we're asked every week to copy 'em due to non-availability. None of these big companies will ever spit on free advertising (as long as it's related to what they sell). Do you really...

You're right Gino

Printing with Roland printers since 2004, I have a long-term experience with this ink / vinyl film combo. My profile is tweaked to be generous (saturated... just enough) so it build-up a considerable coat of ink when I'm printing (traffic signs, vehicle wraps...) Sure a proper drying time is...

I also got it by 10yds increment...

I thought you were talking 'bout a full 54" or 60"... I know some shops have customers for that, not me in my rural spot (...) 5600 is only used for vehicles where we met some rivets, tight curves and other convex-concave spots. 5400 is my general plot / print reflective material for...

I always laught when I read 5650RA and affordable in the same sentence... the price of the full roll is like a cashdown on a house :dog42: I use Oracal for my reflective prints but cannot afford the 5650RA, nor my customers. 5400 or 5600 laminated with 290G. Last forever. Roland VS540 with...

I did. Does the same job, not better IMO

I'm more big rigs lettering / graphics oriented but like other shops, I don't turn my back on smaller projects when asked by long time customers. I'm getting more & more requests for small signs made of 3mm ACM (call it DiBond, AluPanel, whatever...). Most of the time I cut 'em with my X-Acto...

Sign & Display use very different settings as the CMYK Target Profile is JapanStandard.icc (probably lighten up colors so that's why your blue pops while it shifts the black / gray). These are tinny li'l adjustment in parameters (I won't go any further in my explanations as I don't master it)...

"violators will be shot, survivors will be shot again"...

I hate when cities or town planners told us what colors or materials to use. Around here they act like jerk when it comes to deliver the permit and think THEY KNOW EVERYTHING. Who are they to decide what's good for our customers? I'm all on as for having rules and to avoid excess from some...

If you want to print a proof w/o banding / weird color transition) I suggest you save it as bitmap (jpg, tif, whatever) in hi-res than print it. Result will be closer to your screen. I would also said RGB instead of CMYK so your blue will remains blue, not "almost black". * in this case w/o...

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