Last minute change on frosted install has me panicked - please advise!

[jtiii]

This is 48" tall frosted plus 6" stripes above and below. So originally this was a ~25' glass wall with 48" glass panes with mullions between. So I'd have to install in sections, but wouldn't have any big pcs. So I quoted. I'm using Arlon 5200 2 mil cast.

Then they said there were no mullions, just 1/4" gaps between (now 49") panes. So I figured I'd install a 4x8 center section plus 4 foot sections otherwise and trim between the windows, plus 1/8" margin.

Now they tell me there are no gaps between the panes, that they are touching.
So do I need to install a 4'x25' piece now??
Will either Rapid-Tac or RT2 give me enough working time to mess around with this big sheet?
Do I need to premask now? I was going to just float everything into place when they were little pieces.
Should I slit the vinyl at the window seams? If the panes are out of plane I'd have to but otherwise I don't know whether I should.



Oh yeah, I have also found out that the customers (2 engineers) are nitpicky controlling micromanager types

 

[Billct2]

I think you have to have a discussion with these guys, the job has changed and gotten much more difficult.
I also think you should cut it at the seams which will give you some breathing room anyhow.

 

[FatCat]

Billct2 is absolutely correct on all counts. Specs and difficulty have changed, so therefore price should go up.

Also, I agree cutting at the seams will allow you better control over the job - no way I'd risk trying to do that in 1 piece, even with wet apply.

 

[Johnny Best]

Like Billct2 says, cut at seams. Most of the time when they have large pieces they put silicone in seams of glass. The vinyl will not stick to that well and it will lift. Go to the jobsite and look at the glass because a 4'x25' piece of material at one time would be a monster to handle and to wet window and apply evenly. Peeling off the backer and keeping a large piece like that clean without getting it dirty or folding back on itself is going to be a bear. Good luck with that. On large pieces I like to wet the back of material and glass. Hopefully there will be a large conference table in the room where you could lay the piece on, peel off backer, wet film and glass and three people lift it up to glass and install.

 

[jtiii]

Thanks y'all, do you have an opinion about which Rapid Tac, 1 or 2? (I know I should make my own, next time I promise!)

 

[Billct2]

I use Rapid Tac 2, found it to be better in all circumstances where I need to use juice.

 

[GB2]

I agree with the others about the cost and the cutting at the seams but as much as I do like Rapid Tac, I would not use it for a job like this. We would definitely use a mixture of water with a few drops of Baby Shampoo added to it and spray it liberally with a pump sprayer on the glass and on the material until it was dripping everywhere and then squeegee it on. This is how you apply window film, and we have squeegees designed for this purpose but it works just as well with an adhesive product like you have. We have done pieces 25'x4' using this method with no problem but I would still cut yours at the seams.

 

[GVP]

On big pieces, I find Rapidtac2 too 'grabby' - even RapidTac1 can sometimes be too quick. I agree with GB2 - water/soap mixture is what I would use on large solid pieces. Also, a calendered material, being a little thicker, I think is easier to handle. Take plenty of towel!

 

[spectrum maine]

This is 48" tall frosted plus 6" stripes above and below. So originally this was a ~25' glass wall with 48" glass panes with mullions between. So I'd have to install in sections, but wouldn't have any big pcs. So I quoted. I'm using Arlon 5200 2 mil cast.

Then they said there were no mullions, just 1/4" gaps between (now 49") panes. So I figured I'd install a 4x8 center section plus 4 foot sections otherwise and trim between the windows, plus 1/8" margin.

Now they tell me there are no gaps between the panes, that they are touching.
So do I need to install a 4'x25' piece now??
Will either Rapid-Tac or RT2 give me enough working time to mess around with this big sheet?
Do I need to premask now? I was going to just float everything into place when they were little pieces.
Should I slit the vinyl at the window seams? If the panes are out of plane I'd have to but otherwise I don't know whether I should.

View attachment 129818

Oh yeah, I have also found out that the customers (2 engineers) are nitpicky controlling micromanager types

i would slit seams, & trim back at least 1/16" do 1 or 2 windows, get them to approve the process. If they dont approve...RUN FORREST RUN!

 

[jfiscus]

Switch your material to the MacTac B-Free version. It'll be a life saver in this case. Do you even have a wide format plotter that can track a cut that straight for 25ft?

 

[Modern Ink Signs]

All the above PLUS.....

You should look at the windows. I'd bet that the edges are beveled. If this is the case that turns that portion of the glass from a high energy surface to a low energy surface.

When I've done installs like this the vinyl is trimmed back to the edge of the bevels

 

[eahicks]

All the above PLUS.....

You should look at the windows. I'd bet that the edges are beveled. If this is the case that turns that portion of the glass from a high energy surface to a low energy surface.

When I've done installs like this the vinyl is trimmed back to the edge of the bevels

I've said before, I'll say it again...along with the above mentioned, I would measure and remeasure 3 times, and cut the individual window pieces 1/32-1/16" short so you don't have to trim at all and it will fit right in with the smallest amount of gap. No one will see it, and you will save yourself a lot of time and frustration trying to trim any edges that might overhang the glass edge.

 

[eahicks]

Switch your material to the MacTac B-Free version. It'll be a life saver in this case. Do you even have a wide format plotter that can track a cut that straight for 25ft?

General Formulations has an air-egress etch ( 790AE) we are starting to use now that is similar. Fantastic to install, and prints well too.

 

[CL Visual]

I'll 2nd the General Formulations air egress film. We carry that for all our printed pieces and use Avery etchmark for our plotted pieces.

 

[MikePro]

pre-cutting your panels might be a mistake. you are not certain of exact dimensions AND if you don't apply dead-nuts-square or somehow stretch the vinyl (even if ever so slightly), it will look awful.

order your material with extra to spare, but don't cut anything until you've verified dimensions of the panels & conditions of the seams. I would be cutting long & trimming after application, approx 1/16"- 1/8" back from the edge of the glass or silicone. Applied as tiles, you don't want to bridge vinyl over a seam nor risk ruining a section while trying to apply a 4'x25' field.

 

[eahicks]

pre-cutting your panels might be a mistake. you are not certain of exact dimensions AND if you don't apply dead-nuts-square or somehow stretch the vinyl (even if ever so slightly), it will look awful.

How would I not be certain of my dimensions if, like I said, I measured and remeasured myself? If I'm relying on someone else's measurements, then no, I would not do that.

 

[jtiii]

So do y'all think I should put up 4x8s and cut them at the seams, so I have three panels to line up over the whole wall? Or put up 4x4s which would be easier to handle but more panels to align? So far I'm liking the running and heavy drinking options best!

 

[boxerbay]

why wasn't an onsite pre-inspection and site survey done before quoting? this would avoid a lot of pitfalls. see photo. client provided sizes and design BUT never realized they would end up with misaligned text.

 

[Johnny Best]

So do y'all think I should put up 4x8s and cut them at the seams, so I have three panels to line up over the whole wall? Or put up 4x4s which would be easier to handle but more panels to align? So far I'm liking the running and heavy drinking options best!

Get a laser level and do small panels, easier and faster install with less stress.

 

[Ultimate13]

Switch your material to the MacTac B-Free version. It'll be a life saver in this case. Do you even have a wide format plotter that can track a cut that straight for 25ft?

Second the Mac Tac B-Free, we use it and love the way it prints and works. I'll never go back to etched without air-egress.