Search results

I've helped 1000s of sign shops fix their own machines. The OEMs would have you believe that the average end user doesn't have the ability to fix their own machine and they're saving you from yourself by hiding that info. I've definitely run into customers who should hire a tech but a large...

The line width is usually going to be fine at .012" but you can vary the size depending on the job. Rasterlink and FineCut will actually give you a recommended mark size depending on how large of an area it being cut.

Those cropmarks in your picture look backwards to me. Anyway, take a look in your mark settings and find the mark type settings. Mark type 2 might work better for your needs. You can also make the marks smaller but the more distance between the marks, the smaller they are, the more likely the...

Just to be sure, did you install the Mimaki USB driver on the new computer and the one you tested it on? That step tends to be forgotten in the install process from my experience. Without it, even having Rasterlink installed won't see the USB port.

Finding a good tech is hit or miss. There's a certain kind of tech who just goes scorched Earth and replaces all of the expensive parts in the hope that that should fix problems. A good tech will explain exactly why they think certain parts should be changed and how it should fix the problem.

The meaning of Refresh changed at some point in Mimaki machines. On the newer models, refresh is more of a maintenance function rather then something that happens during printing. It normally takes the place of auto cleanings which saves ink. So instead of running a cleaning cycle every 8 - 12...

It's odd that yellow isn't coming out on the air purge. Either the air purge route is clogged or there is no yellow in the system to purge. That would normally give a supply error though. I would lift the flap on the sub tank to see if there is any ink in the yellow slot. It's ok to look in...

Check the bottom of your head. The way the nozzles are deformed on your nozzle check indicate a head strike/physical damage to me.

Check system parameter 66. It should be set to "2" If not, the machine will think it's a 1 head or 0 head machine. Also, make sure your pressure settings are within spec and do an air purge. That can take care of issues like this.

This latest round of new machines seem to be geared more towards start ups and smaller shops. They also just released the CJV200 where a 64" print/cut is $12k but much slower than the previous CJV150. I agree the price difference between the small JFX200 and the regular sized one is pretty...

I'm sure there are counties that have tougher regulations for sure. Once the ink is dry, the organic solvents have evaporated into the air so they won't be leached into the ground. But your county might be more worried about the nickel in the cyan ink and the carbon black in the black ink that...

Doesn't look like they support it in Flexi. It looks like it's based off a GCC cutter but doesn't look exactly the same. You could try setting it up as one of the GCC model options as pretty much all cutters simply use the HPGL language to communicate but it could do some funky things. Might be...

Yeah it's probably the thermistor and/or the heaters themselves. If you feel the platens and they are cold/room temp the heaters or heater controller is probably shot. If it gets really hot and still doesn't start printing, it's more likely the thermistor. It could be a mix of those though.

I'd say it's a defective head which is very rare but not unheard of. Seems like it may have a short somewhere telling that nozzle to fire all the time. We too have installed Mutoh heads into Mimakis for many years without issue. They're all Epson at the end of the day.

Exactly like the above comments. If you have a bunch of it, many gallons, hire a waste company. If you have a little, let it absorb and dry into kitty litter or saw dust and once dry, throw it out.

There are ways of doing it but it's all about if it's worth the hassle, time, and money. For dye sub and DTF you could just find an ink supplier that sells the ink with Roland chips. But then you would have to make your own profiles and you might never get it perfectly dialed in. You wouldn't...

It's the part that the cap is attached to. Those little pegs that slide up and down when the head docks can become flat on the bottom and cause the alignment issues.

I've run into this issue many times on these models as they age. A lot of good advice above. Also, a lot of the time it's the cap slider that is worn out and not allowing a good cap alignment to be made. Changing the entire capping station or just the slider a lot of the time fixes it.

I don't have a ton of experience with it to be honest. Usually the auto setting works for most. I would definitely contact your dealer and see what they say. To me it seems like the head might not be firing properly and might need adjustment. I've seen heads do weird things when the firmware...

The spot option is what adjusts the white. If you don't have clear, you don't need to worry about the clear option. Does your nozzle check print 100% of the nozzles?