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You can't change the order other than changing the ink set from 4 or 6 color. It's in the firmware and there are no user or service level ways to change it.
Check out this YouTube video. The link will jump you to the portion of the video that goes through output size compensation. That should help you get closer to the proper size.
I would try doing a data swap to pinpoint where the issue is. It could be the transistors but it could also be damage to the heads themselves. Basically you just swap the position of the cables from a head that is working with one that isn't. You only move the end of the cable that connects to...
I would try upping the resolution on your export settings. I'm willing to bet the original image has a higher ppi than 72 and by making it 72, you're downsampling which can cause color changes.
In my experience, Mimaki chip readers rarely fail. You might try cleaning them with alcohol as sometimes they can become dirty and cause connection issues. As far as flagging empty when they are not, that's a different sensor and they are easy to break. Take a look in the cartridge slot with a...
It basically means the machine isn't seeing the slider board. The official troubleshooting procedure is to check the cables that connect the main board to the slider board for damage and/or if they are still plugged in and replace if needed. The connections on the main board should be labeled...
Roland transitioned away from Epson heads with the TruVis series for cheaper, slower heads. The fastest printers that still print high quality I'm seeing these days are using the Epson I1600 and 3200 heads. The Mutoh XpertJets use the I1600 head and are decently fast for a little more than your...
I read somewhere that Microsoft's philosophy is that, if there is available memory, it should be used as much as possible to improve performance. They basically cache the programs you use most often so they load a little faster. Doesn't seem to improve performance that much to me.
Any software that allows you to make a spot color called "CutContour" will allow you to make a single print/cut file. That's exactly what Flexi does except they have a dedicated button for it.
Have you tried using the scale settings in the Windows display settings? It doesn't change the resolution but changes the scale of the a lot of UI features and fonts etc.
Check the bottom of the head for ink build up and clean it up. It looks like it could be ink dragging along the print. Also, check your pressure system to make sure it's producing the correct negative and positive pressures. If either are off, it can cause issues like this.
Your yellow head is probably on it's way out. These heads can print multiple sized dots. When printing in high speed, low res, it uses a single sized, large dot. When printing in high quality mode, it uses the other sizes together to create the best print. So basically think of it as the head...
I haven't used Vertilith yet but I would assume so. The way Flexi makes cut lines is exactly how you make it in Illustrator. Flexi has a special button that does it but it's still just making a spot color named CutContour and applying it to the cut line. Pretty much every RIP recognizes that...
What you need is the Mutoh Status Monitor. unmateria is correct about not needing the MSA to do it but on that model, you need the MSM software in order to get to the head alignments etc. since the machine doesn't have a panel/display. If you Google it, it should pop right up.
I just ask our guys to CC me the PO so I know what's in the pipe line and don't get blindsided. But if they want to order instead of making me do it, more power to ya!
Checkout this page for profiles - https://mimaki.com/product/inkjet/i-flat/jfx200-2531/download.html
Not sure why Mimaki hides it on people but there are many profiles you can try there.
Edit: Here's the page for your EX version -...
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