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You may have done this but just to put it out there, make sure you adjusted the MAPS2 settings specifically for the white. They separate the settings for the color, white, and clear in the menus so if you just did the color settings, it wouldn't affect the white. Also, make sure your lamp...

That's either going to be a dirty or damaged encoder strip or an electrical issue with the head/cables. I could clean the encoder strip first as that's the most likely culprit.

I guess those new college grads who know how to use the Tensor Flow library in Python don't come cheap these days!

Check out coinkdistributions.com. They can make you some chips.

$400 is almost definitely a scam. I would be very careful.

The memory itself doesn't go bad usually. Just the dirty terminal. Usually if it isn't the memory, it's another component on the main board that has fried.

A common problem with these older Mutohs was the main board memory. Especially on the 1204. The oldest 1204 still had removable memory. If that's the case on yours, try removing it, air dusting, and then reinstall it. That would fix the issue of not powering on a lot of the time.

I've seen people use solvent inks years out of expiration. UV is definitely more problematic and tends to have shorter expiry dates. I heard from a chemist that it has to do with the way the pigments are suspended in the fluid and over time they lose that ability. Basically the pigments start...

I would test the encoder in service mode. If it's working, you might be looking at a new main board unfortunately. If it doesn't work, you might just have a bad sensor. To test the sensor: -Power on while holding the up, right, and down buttons -Once it boots, scroll down to the, "Inspection"...

You've reset the machine back to it's initial fill so you're going to need to tell it it's already full. -Power on while holding the up, right, and down buttons -Once it boots up, scroll through the service menu until you find, "Parameter" and hit enter -Scroll down to, "Update" and hit enter...

What model? Looks like you need to run the print/cut alignment on the printer. If it's an older model you would need to run the environmental match as well.

That sensor detects the pinch rollers but it also detects when the cutter is back at its home position so that would definitely cause it to fail. Try putting it back in place and see if that fixes the Y error. As far as the cutting issue, is there any damage to the blade holder?

This will be an interesting one. It sounds like maybe the origin flag got bent out of place. That would explain why it's smashing into the head and not docking the cutter properly which causes Y errors due to the impact. It doesn't explain why the cut test is off though. So maybe a few things...

PF stands for Page Feed or Print Feed so it's the X direction, which is counter intuitive but it's how the engineers look at the printer. Take off the left side cover of the machine and you will see a clear plastic disc. Clean it with alcohol and a clean cloth. Also, make sure the motor can turn...

You've basically covered it. The chip is either bad or the reader is bad. It's usually the chip. Mimaki won't send a new chip out but you can request your dealer place a warranty order for a replacement. Last time I tried that through, they ghosted me. Your other option is...

Try cleaning the encoder strip. It could be many things but that's my first thing to check usually.

Check the blade tip with a loupe or magnifying glass. The fact that the blade isn't properly going back to the origin indicates the blade tip isn't where it should be. So it's either broken or sticking too far out or too little. That or your blade offset setting got changed which causes the same...

In my sign shop days that's how we made pretty much every flat sign.

damonCA21 Might know. He's a member here who does component repairs.

The machine isn't really meant to switch inks regularly. Like smoke says, it's fairly easy to do but the more you do it, the more likely you are to causes damaged to the machine. All of my customers use LUS-170. The main difference between LUS-170 and LUS-200 is LUS-200 qualified for the Avery...