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Jill
Sorry to hear that as IMHO you are really talented.
Where you move is really important. If you were to pick say Detroit well..........
If I had to pick a spot with the most growth potential I would pick San Fran or Silicon Valley.
They are tossing $$$$ like they are printing it in the...
ahhh the good ol "system"
Kind of like the $1000 light bulb and how many government employees does it take to change it.
Unless you know someone or are married to someone who knows someone forget about it.
I hear that.
Rick went above the 10 minute chalenge. It may have taken 11 minutes........
Just trying to make sense of how to charge for things digital. Maybe use the the late great Steve Jobs model of .99 cents?
I have a friend who is an IT manager for Comcast. The guy makes big bucks, for now...
Wow this thread took on a life of its own.
OP got about 20 or so FREE designs to choose from. Even an entire FREE branding like the one above which is actually worth some $$$$.
This is the problem with most industries today. Things are given away for FREE. If not for free there is always...
We actually had the dealer flush the lines, replace the heads and a few other parts.
I think at one point they even tried to re-introduce the original inks but it was too late.
Since you bought it like that good luck.
Usually the aftermarket ink makers will have a warranty. Check ALL your paperwork. Contact the dealer who sold the system to you.
Out of courtesy I will not mention the ink company, but I witnessed a perfectly good Roland Soljet540 turn in to a boat anchor by simply switching over to a bulk ink...
If you are intent on an oval at least use some effects on the type. Maybe drop shadow, bevel or emboss >one click in photoshop................
And the green?
You can try to pick up a older model Xrite DTP41 or similar device that just reads a strip at a time. You will need to manually feed these in. Generally speaking these will read 12 patches at a time. The newer automatic models scan an entire 8.5 x 11 in a few seconds.
I just checked, the...
Another option would be to simply force it open in Photoshop and saving out as a tiff for final output.
Be sure to choose the correct output resolution.
The above was for black and white printed on a cmyk printer only.
You just toss in diifferent conversions for colors, fleshtones etc.
BTW did you try and switch the versaworks off signs and display? That is a saturated profile............... > On canvas use SWOP output profile.
This would be the short version on how I would tackle this in Photoshop:
Be sure the image is at least 125 dpi + at output size. The higher the better.
Convert to B&W: Image>Mode>Grayscale (Be sure that your highlights are no less than 3% Shadows 95%). This is a generalzation and may need to be...
IMHO a jpg should never be relied upon to send to a final output. Especially if its high quality you seek in the end. Usually they are RGB to begin with.
If its a color image fine but not for b&w. You are sending a compressed file to a rip and then depending on your rips ability to uncompress...
Adobe products are so tightly integrated.
The ability to place and then edit Photoshop links directly from the links palette and be taken directly from Illy to Photoshop and back again, saves a ton of time.
Not to mention all the free 3rd party plug-ins and scripts available...
You mentioned that you are using .jpgs
A better method is to convert it to a tiff or an uncompressed pdf.
Also, is it a b/w?
Ideally it should be converted from RGB to b/w then finally 4/c. You may need to back off on your black seperartion in Photoshop after converting to your output profile...
There is no shortage of scamming idiots on craigslist for sure. Usually they want to prepay for something sight unseen, and it is usually a stolen c/c # etc., etc.
However I fail to see how this guy is going to carry out his scheme.
Maybe to get his car shipped for free? Surely he cant be that...
Do you know anyone nearby with a Zund?
It may be to late as you need to pre-plan ahead with dots on the print for cut registration but 10 mil + material is too thick IMHO for a printer/ cutter.
This is a prime example of why to linearize your printer BEFORE profiling.
Also, save a sample of your test print and date it. I recommend runnning a test print at the start of each week, and before any color critical job just to be sure the printer hasn't drifted.
I am not too sure on the laminators that have preset slots for pressure setting the rollers. I am thinking more of the adjustable hand crank style to set the rollers manually like the Seal 54 below.
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