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This is the moment your high school math teacher was telling you about all those years ago! lol They also said we wouldn't be carrying calculators around with us everywhere we go though.
If you want to do a little math you can use this formula: L = pi ∗ (OD² / 4 − ID² / 4) / t
OD = Outside Diameter of the roll
ID = Inside Diameter
T = Media Thickness
These days you have to use up to date encryption to be PCI compliant. The problem is that PCI compliance is a self reporting standard so any merchant can just say they are compliant and it get's filed away somewhere.
In my experience a lot of people run longstore but never actually look at the lines to make sure they got properly cleaned out. So that ink stays in the system and makes bringing it back to life difficult. That being said, the success rate for even properly longstored machines coming back to...
Does it look like the black is mixing into the cyan in the nozzle check by chance? If so, I'd start with some new dampers and make sure your maintenance tubes aren't clogged.
Grays printing pink or greenish is a very common issue in digital printing. While you can sort of fix it by playing around with settings like you have, the most effective way is to make your own color profiles. The profiles that come with printers or that you download off the internet are just...
You can't print true neon colors with a CMYK digital printer without some sort of special custom ink set. You could get some neon vinyl and use it as a spot color as a possible solution.
It won't cut out of Rasterlink. You will need to add Summa crop marks to your design in your design software, print out of Rasterlink, and then cut through Summa's software or some other 3rd party cutting software like Flexi. Rasterlink will only run Mimaki machines.
That looks like you need to turn the vacuum up all the way if it isn't already. They also have a fix to help the vacuum pull the media down better. I don't have experience installing it but from what I hear, they basically fill some of the empty space in the platen with Styrofoam so the vacuum...
Make sure your pinch rollers are as evenly spaced as possible and make sure all the ones being used are over the grit of the grit roller as indicated by some triangle markings on the Y bar. If one or more of the rollers are out of position, it will cause the media to pop up like that. You may...
It's much simpler than that. The ink ID board is simply looking for that black box on the mirror sticker to verify it's a Mutoh cartridge. The ink level indicator is that little plastic tab that sticks out of the whole in the cartridge.
Unfortunately, even with UV inks, there's a little bit of solvent in it that "etches" the plastic. It's annoying but you probably won't ever get it to go away completely.
Is it possible that's a raster effect like a drop shadow or outer glow that somehow got corrupted? The image isn't super high res so I can't tell when I zoom in but it looks like a raster effect. If it is, you might try to delete it and redo the effect.
I don't know about your model specifically but in general UV filters tend to be 5 to 10 microns and a major manufacturer is Pall. Might get you pointed in the right direction.
That has more to do with the DX5 heads. The DX7s are generally universal. We've got them in stock here in Denver. You know us as Signage Specialist BTW.
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