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Sounds like SignLab might not support the multi printer support from the MImkai driver or you might just need to call them and see if there's a trick to getting it to work.

The head fuse on the main board probably popped. That's what it is most of the time in these cases. Finding what caused the fuse to pop is the harder part. You'll want to find what caused the fuse to pop in the first place before you replace it. It's usually a bad head cable but it can be a lot...

The Mimaki USB driver differentiates between machines using the machine serial number. You should be able to print to both at the same time as long as your software allows it. The driver should handle that automatically for you. That being said, I've never tried it in SignLab.

Tape some scrap vinyl onto the end of your print. It will give the printer enough to grab onto and trip the sensor so you can finish the cut. I've done it plenty of times!

lol It's even crazier than that because, not only is it true that the CD the key on older versions of FineCut, from what I understand, the "key" is just the name of the CD. I'm pretty sure I saw a guy on signs101 simply make a blank CD and name it correctly and it worked.

Are you sure there isn't some transparent object that is being scaled up with the banner and throwing off the total size in Rasterlink?

In my opinion, head recovery systems, at least for the Epson heads, are useless. Head nozzles fail in 2 main ways. 1 is they become physically deformed which cleaning won't fix ever. 2 is they become clogged with cured ink. A lot of the time you can flush solution through and unclog the head. If...

I agree. It looks like ink starvation during the print. In these cases I usually check the positive and negative pressure, adjust if needed, and then run an air purge. That takes care of a lot of ink flow issues that aren't caused by a broken part.

No joke, my boss can smell vinyl and tell you what it is lol.

As mentioned above, sticking vinyl on the coro is what you do when you don't have a flatbed. There is no benefit to you switching to that method over what you currently have. You could make an argument that it's easier to laminate a non-flatbed print for longevity but yard signs are rarely used...

Didn't know they were still around. They've been doing it for a long time!

When the RJ-900 first came out, there were DX5 heads that had non-solvent resistant manifolds so if you put solvent through them, they would melt. At some point they just got rid of those and started putting solvent DX5 heads in them instead. So most, if not all, current RJ-900's do have solvent...

You don't want to use solvent ink in that machine for 2 main reasons. A lot of the parts won't be able to withstand the solvent inks washout failing and there are no heaters. Technically you could convert it to a solvent if you wanted to but it's not really worth it. I'd just stick with what...

Peak - The motor experiences a short, high jump in current that caused it to shut off. It's usually due to a physical obstruction or electrical issue with the motor, regen resistance board. or main board. Ave - The motor's average current is too high indicating drag on the system. Usually...

That model is the Mutoh 1341SR Pro rebranded. It's the next generation up from your current machine. So learning curve should be minimal. The head is also an upgrade. If you liked the 1324X, this machine should be a nice upgrade for you.

Sounds like the circuit that handles power control / sleep mode is broken. Unfortunately that would be the main board that is malfunctioning. The fact that it won't turn on to clean supports that idea as well. It wants to turn on to clean but the broken circuit won't allow it to.

I agree. In this case it's just temporary. I wouldn't run it like that for a long period of time for sure.

The worst that will happen is the media will skew so you might as well try it but keep an eye on it so you don't get head strikes. The outside rollers are tapered to pull the media flat but Mimaki printers only use flat rollers even on the edges and it works fine.

Check your Windows firewall settings and make sure VersaWorks is allowed to use the network. The fact that windows can ping it and it still won't connect tells me VW is being blocked.

When was the last time you changed the primary filters? They might be overdue. I would also take a look at the bottom of the head and look for signs of head strikes and/or ink build up that might be affecting those nozzles. Make sure not to use a flashlight unless it has a UV safe filter.