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100% silicone (haven't tried Lexel yet) has worked well for me...gives you a window to "scooch" into place before setting. If I don't need the "scooch" time window, my go to is a 3M VHB...the stuff sticks mad...but you get one shot on placement.

The edge will not do gradient blends well...period. Fred Weiss' suggestion is probably the best you're going to get. For images, I do a 75LPI with "classical dot" setting.

We default to the exterior...seems to show up better for viewing. Once though, we created and installed a design in where we had elements on both the first and second surface. It was a really cool effect and added an amazing amount of perceived depth.

Can anyone weigh in on whether the denatured alcohol works as well?....any concerns substituting this for isopropanol?

No shame in being poor or exhausted....big shame to be both though. People that want free work aren't going to help you, and don't let the size of the "carrot" sway your decision. If we all stay to this resolve, we can "train" the market to have appropriate expectations concerning design. As...

+1 for the PPG Breakthrough paint...awesome!

Thanks for the insight. What I'm applying to the doors are cut to shape white panels, which I'll then apply lettering to those. I ordered some 3M 180MC to do the next vehicle panels...feel like it would have to help things along. The one vehicle I've done using Oracal 751 was a PIA for sure...

The new Dodge Durangos have that unfortunate compound curve about mid door. Yesterday I successfully applied a fairly large panel using Oracal 751...it tested me. I have others to do, so my question is...would using the Avery 950 Supercast aid me in my endeavors?...Second question....I like...

Only 10% for alcohol?....sounds way low to me.

Maybe not related to your challenges, but wanted to share since we're talking about paint. Haven't experienced this on the front end, but more so after the signs are installed (and exposed to heat/moisture) The Sherwin Williams paint I was using would blister and boil up after being in the...

Impossible!

Hey gang---a colleague (she had submitted to join, but has not yet received acceptance from admin) is having trouble getting her Edge to a state of "being initialized" and ready to accept jobs. They've used this machine for years, and then one day upon start up, got a "data error" message (on...

I have an Gerber Envision 375 that's a beast, and also have an Ioline 24" friction feed. Gerber is expensive, but you get reliability. Surprisingly though, albeit Ioline plotters are inexpensive, I have found mine to be a true work horse---first plotter I ever bought (probably in 1995...paid...

Thanks Ian---I think Art Path tolerance setting only affect one component...either the pocket or the piece to be dropped in. It's been a long time since I've used that function of the software, but thanks for bringing this up as I will check to make sure both paths aren't adjusted...or if both...

Thanks Gino...usually I would paint the tops and edges of the letters before hand, but not the bottoms of the letters. So I'd rout the sign panel and spray the entire thing (several coats) to finish it off in the color that the deepest area needs to be, and then hand paint my way up to the most...

I'm using Gerber Art Path.

Hi everyone....I'm needing to do a cnc carved urethane sign. Because of the design, I'd like to do an auto inlay so that I can drop the letters in separately after everything is painted. I'll be using latex paints...at least 3 coats on both the panel and the separate letters. It's been a good...

That's been my solution...rubber mate storage containers for dedicated purposes make life easier for me.

+1 for matte lam...always!

I was doing police cars (in the winter) using 3M680 and had this exact same issue. The sun's exposure would cause the bubbles to form (keep in mind it was still cold outside). On cold damp days the bubbles would disappear, and then reappear on warmer days in direct sun. At first I thought it was...