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Use Phototex (or similar) for the overlays for a clean removal.

It's still ongoing. We order 10 rolls of 180c at a time, and the day they arrive we order 10 more. Now we have 3 rolls left and no more here yet, scary days ahead! We are also waiting on 8519 now the same way, down to 1 full roll of that... No idea when/if 480 or SLS will ever arrive.

It looks like the rear and seat area might be the same as this one, but you will probably have to make your own "hood" template. https://www.signs101.com/threads/free-stuff-for-yall.118411/post-1285438

If he looks to be a pain, he might just drop you over nothing the same way you can drop him even if you deal with his ****. There's no contract or guarantee ever of future work (from or for) him by either party. I'd be out looking for a few more good customers just in case he messes things up...

Here is a 2015 Starcraft/International Shuttle Bus. 10% Scale.

We did, even if they're in there, when you upgrade they don't cut correctly if it communicates correctly. Fun fun!

I hope they get these plotter issues fixed soon. We just purchased a new Graphtec FC9000 and have had nothing but issues with it and Onyx. When it works, it is awesome, but we've thrown away around 4-5 rolls worth of printed/laminated 180c due to RIP issues losing the barcodes in CutServer after...

We use the RealGold brand products, SignGold is also a good product.

We store our 30"+ print/laminates along the walls on the plastic end caps; laminates near laminator, print media near printers. We store the 15" vinyl for the Edge on a rolling rack near those printers. We do use the wire frame rolling racks to store the 60" 2080 materials on.

I usually take the "artwork" and make it all solid Black (use the layer effects to do color overlays if you have to) and keep the background white, then save that out as a JPEG. Then I take that into Illustrator and do a LiveTrace and have that make the shape object.

Foam tape should be able to ride that wall and get good adhesion.

Supposedly you can do it directly from Photoshop, but I never had any success. https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/printing-spot-colors.html

When I set up prints like these I set up the art in Photoshop then saved a flattened TIFF/JPEG out. Then in Illustrator I added my "CutContour" and the "Spot1" (white) shapes. You have to set ALL elements to be overprints for Onyx to recognize all of them.

Print it onto the 3M Metallic 180 vinyl?

Put a piece of tape all the way around the slick roll on the take-up and tape to that.

Maybe feed speed is too high? Running it slower may give it more time to bond with the print. Might also be too thick/rigid of a laminate to endure the "folding"? IDK, we don't deal with hot laminates much.

Here is a Heavy Rescue Truck I had to redraw today. 10% Scale.

One thing to remember are your own application's color settings that you regularly use to create in. If you download one of those charts above, be sure to open it with Illustrator, and copy it out of that file and paste it into a new document using your own current color settings. Otherwise, it...

What about a thin acrylic or single-sided polymetal option? Too much weight?

Buy Gerber vinyls instead of Oracal. Cheaper than a new plotter. For the detail that the Gerber Edge/plotter combo gets you, you are going to want to stick to sprocket-fed rolls. It will work fine with friction-fed plotters if all you are doing is cutting vinyl graphics (not print/cut) but the...