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The LUS-150 in particular is a more rare ink these days. All of the original JFX200s were inked with the LUS-150 ink but shortly after release, they came out with the LUS-170s and now most JFX200s use the 170s or the LH-100 for hard applications. So I assume the 3rd parties just don't see a...

If budget isn't an issue, the Epson is a more high quality machine. Most people get the HPs because they are cheaper, have non-toxic ink and the printheads are cheap. But if you can afford the Epson, it's the better choice in my opinion.

I had a customer accidentally order the MAX2 inks so he put some regular MAX ink chips on them and used them like that. He had no issues but it was only 2 cartridges and he switched back after.

Agreed. A lot of people like the HP because it's non-toxic inks but forget that heating vinyl up to 100 degrees releases all kinds of bad stuff into the air that are particularly dangerous to kid's development.

That error is not really meant for users and is for the software developers. One of their functions is failing when it tries to run. Either your software is corrupt, the file you're RIPing has some sort of object the RIP can't process or some other technical issue is happening. You could ask...

It could be a couple things. If your color setup is CMYK x 2 and you don't have the light cyan, light magenta, or light black, grays will always look a little more grainy than if you did. Make sure you run the drop position alignments and get them as perfect as you can. Do the same with the...

The Epson you mention is an aqueous printer so it won't make outdoor durable stickers. With laminate you could make something work but it would still fade quickly compared to a solvent or UV printer. For your budget I would take a look at the Mimaki CJV150 series. You could get a new 30"...

It's generally not a good idea to print directly to magnet with a roll to roll printer. A head strike could cost you a head which is $$$$. Most people will print on some vinyl and laminate it on the magnet, use a UV printer, or sub it out.

Yeah banner is very forgiving usually so it should work out fine. Medium or high is probably better to avoid head strikes.

Usually a glossy vinyl profile will do the trick.

White shouldn't even be an option on most solvent printers. It never worked as advertised for any brand. If you absolutely need white, get a UV.

Change your dampers and the little claw piece that connects it to the ink line along with the o-ring that seals that connection. If that doesn't do the trick, change the ink line and o-ring connection for that channel. These machines are on the older side and tend to have leaky lines and...

Room temperature affects how the ink jets from the head. So it can definitely affect the way the print looks. Generally printers want to be in about 60 to 80 degree rooms when printing. Also, if the ink is expired, the pigments separate from the solvent and you end up printing deluded ink which...

I usually use Mouser Electronics or DigiKey for that type of stuff here in the US. Not sure if they ship to you but I wouldn't be surprised.

Yeah those break all the time. I thought I had a picture for you but all of the boards I have are broken!

Sounds like the media is skewing possibly. Might need new pinch rollers.

Not all 3rd party inks are equal. Here in the US the trusted 3rd party brands are Bordeaux, JetBest, and STS for the most part. But I run into shops running no name Chinese inks all the time that destroy their machines but they couldn't turn down $25 per liter.

Unfortunately, if head soaks and cleanings didn't recover anything, that head is probably done for. The actual nozzles are probably deformed.

Cheetahwrap.com is a retail vinyl seller. Get the same stuff for cheaper at a sign supply dealer. In fact, I believe Fellers owns cheetahwrap.com.

The machine also helps you out by beeping to indicate if it's high or low so you don't need to watch the screen. Slow beeps means it's too low. Fast beeps is too high. No beeps means it's in range.